1934-46

Before Dual Filament Headlights

Thursday, April 11th, 2013


During the early years of automotive history, the invention of the dual filament light bulb had not emerged.  Therefore, there was no high and low beam headlight bulb on cars and trucks.  Only one beam existed for night driving.

This created a problem with the headlight beam from an on-coming vehicle on the narrow roads in town and country driving.  It was not until the late 1920’s that the two filament headlight bulbs came from the factory on new vehicles.

The attached photos show a great example of American Ingenuity sold in some vehicle parts stores during the 1920’s.  It is an electrical rheostat that allowed the driver to lessen the amount of light from the headlight.  This accessory was mounted on the steering column.  By moving the long lever with a finger, the driver could regulate bulb lighting.  How ingenious!  This very attractive assembly was recently found in an old trunk.   The unit is nickel plated as chrome was not yet available during these early years.  It is a very high quality part.

The price was $7.50, very expensive considering most workers made less than $1.00 per hour.   The sales company is shown to be the Universal Distributing Company of Tulsa, Oklahoma.

No doubt, the sales were limited due to the price but also because of a human trait.  Yes, the vehicle owner could lessen his light on the road but chances are good, the on-coming vehicle did not have one of these inventions.  The person that had spent the money on this accessory still received just as much light in his eyes from on-coming vehicles while he suddenly had less lighting from his vehicle!

1947 GMC Suburban

Thursday, March 21st, 2013




What a rare Suburban! We recently found these photos among some stored papers from 1999. An early 1947 GMC Suburban is rarely seen, so it just had to be placed on our website. This was the last year of the Prewar GMC’s and was carried into the beginning of 1947.

It was owned and restored by Mark DeVries of Bakersfield, California (he may still own it). During its ground up restoration Mark added new leaf springs, wheel cylinders, spindles, a high speed 3.55 ratio ring and pinion, clutch assembly, grille, headlights, fenders and running boards.

Mark even went a step further and black powder coated the frame and axles. The body color is the correct Narva green.

The pair of small accessory taillights were first offered in late 1947, but no doubt the GMC dealer would have added them on this older Suburban. When turn signals became popular, owners often requested these to be placed on their older Suburban’s and Panel trucks.

Change-over to Sealed Beam Headlights

Friday, March 1st, 2013


In 1939 US auto and truck manufacturers realized the following year would be the introduction of the revolutionary new sealed beam headlight bulbs.  These first seal beams were very unique by the newer standards 15 years later that most of us are acquainted with.  This early sealed beam assembly was much like the later design except it had a much smaller 2 filament light bulb inside.  Yes, the inside reflective plating was sealed inside with a glass fluted large lens that was now part of the total assembly.  This reflective coating was sealed from outside air and oxidizing did not occur.  There was no loss of shine with age.  It was one of the best improvements in safety since the introduction of bulb headlights.

A very interesting characteristic of these first seal beams:  A small hole from a flying rock did not burn out the unit.  The argon gas that protected the glowing filaments from quick burn-out was still inside the small internal bulb.

Seal beam bulbs introduced in the early 1950’s were different.  They were one large argon filled assembly.  When cracked by a flying rock, they instantly burned out.  Imagine the number of new designed seam beam bulbs that were lost by vehicles driving at high speeds on gravel roads behind other vehicles!  There must have been a run on the old style obsolete units in rural areas.

The 12 volt sealed beams were not made with the early design “small bulb in the assembly” design.

For most car and truck manufacturers it was too late to do a major redesign of the headlight assemblies for the 1940 year.  Chevrolet and GMC trucks reshaped the metal edge on the 1939 bucket so the new seal beam bulbs fit perfectly.  For those not having a detailed eye for auto and truck changes, it would probably never be noticed.

For those buying a new 1940 vehicle after driving with the old style reflector bulb design, it would be the most significant change in years.  The gradual diming of their lights over the years as the silver reflector tarnished was now history.  Yes, the owner could have removed the glass lens from his older vehicle, polished the silver plate, and reassemble; however it would be like today; most drivers would not take the effort.

Attached are photos of the earlier 1937-39 headlight and the new 1940 with the redesigned seal beam.  The visible part of the buckets is identical including the chrome rings.  It’s only the hidden seal beam edge that is different.

 


1940 Sealbeam bucket

1939 and older headlight-reflector bucket

1940 Sealbeam Headlight

1939 and older Headlight

1934-35 Australian Chevrolet

Friday, February 15th, 2013



These photos might be of interest to US owners of 1934-35 Chevrolet trucks. The Australian design is very similar however there are just enough differences to catch the attention of the close observer.

Examples: The hood sides and doors are quite different. Check the curved door bottoms. Of course, this also makes the cab different.

The wheels, grille emblem and radiator shell are like the US. We suspect the drive train and frame rails are also the same.

Of course, the US ½ and 1 ½ ton use the same cab. No doubt Australia follows the same guidelines.

Photos provided by: Bob Johnson, Melbourne, Australia

1934-35 Australian Chevrolet 1 ½ ton 1934-35 Australian Chevrolet 1 ½ ton

1936-38 GMC Grille Centers

Monday, February 4th, 2013



What a rare occurrence! At the 2011 America Truck Historical Society Convention in South Bend, Indiana, we found both a 1936 and a 1937 restored GMC truck with the correct grill — each at different booths. You can go to every truck show for many years and never see even one. Therefore, we just had to get a few photos and make some comments. After all, this may never happen again.

Though at quick glance, the GMC grilles of these two years may seem the same, however, look close. The die cast assembly at the top of the 1936 and 1937 grille center gives the impression that the vertical grille bars extend through the emblem. They don’t! It’s an illusion; the tops are die cast and give the appearance that the verticals extend to the top.  A hood ornament above repeats the GMC letters.

The 1936 grille center assembly consists of seven vertical 3” wide hollow chrome bars all the same size. The length is 25 1/4″. The notches in the receiving die cast housing (hold these verticals in place) at the top and bottom are the same for each bar.

By 1937-38 the center vertical bar became wider. It increased from .3” in 1936 to .625”. It tapered back to align with the positioning of the other six side bars. The overall length was shortened to 24”.

These notches in the die cast top and bottom receiving housings are therefore different due to the width change in the center bar. The 1936 and 1937 may look the same on the outside but are not where they attach to the vertical bars. See photo. Chrome was not used to add to the appearance.  These bars were painted silver.

By 1938, the upper grille bar housing was modified.  It doesn’t have the upper die cast vertical bars. They even eliminated the GMC letters on the hood ornament above the grille.

Note:  All these upper GMC emblems are also extremely rare. If off the truck, they usually find a hobbyist’s collection. If they don’t have the GMC letters, such as on 1938 hood emblem, most people don’t know what they came from.  Once separated from the truck in a salvage yard they go to the iron pile.


1936 GMC Grille

1936 GMC Grille Center Bars

1937 Grille Center Bars

1938 Upper Grille Bar Housing

1936 GMC Grille Center

1937 GMC Grille Center

1937 upper grill bar extension front view

1937-38 Upper on bottom side

Wood Bed Strips

Tuesday, January 8th, 2013

What an unusual idea!  If you have clear coated your bedwood, replace the metal bed strips with dark stained wood.

 

Of course, this is for a pickup not used for hauling, however as the owner said “If you clear coated your bedwood instead of painting it as original, you were not planning to work with it anyway”.

$100.00 Paint Job — Really Nice!

Wednesday, August 29th, 2012

On an early Monday morning a customer, Mike Riley of Kansas City stopped by our shop to obtain some older Chevy truck parts needed during the past weekend. As I followed him to his mid-1980’s Chevrolet pickup he brought my attention to his new white paint job. He read about a home garage procedure on the internet and decided to try it.

He certainly was proud of how nice the paint looked. The project began with the usual fine sanding, taping trim, and covering windows. Next came the surprise that has generated this article. Mike bought 2 ½ quarts of industrial grade Rustoleum paint from a local hardware store. He also purchase 2 ½ quarts of Acetone to be used as the thinner.

Spraying the 1 to 1 mixture with his small home compressor was adequate. If the small compressor needed to occasionally build up pressure, no problem. It takes 20 minutes for the paint to dry to the touch, so it easily blends together. One coat does it all!

I was amazed at how nice it looked in our driveway that morning. Mike said the rules were to not polish the drying paint for 60 days. He had just polished the two month old paint on the nose of the hood that morning and I must admit it had a great smooth shine.

This procedure is probably not for the show truck but for the fun daily driver it may be just the way to go for the “do- it yourself” restorer. Mike says the industrial Rustoleum colors are limited so you must pick a more common choice when deciding.

Another important tip while using this painting method; Mike didn’t want to get paint overspray throughout his garage so he did the procedure outside in his driveway. A garden hose used by a friend kept the concrete wet during the spraying. This helped eliminate dust in the painted surface but equally important stopped overspray from settling on his driveway.

Firewall Identification

Monday, August 20th, 2012

When finding a 1946 and older Chevy/GMC truck cab, identification may be difficult. Here is a quick way to come very close to the correct year.

The stamped stiffeners on the firewall tell the story.

1936-38
No Stiffeners
1939-40
Two Vertical Stiffeners
1941-46
Cross Design Stiffeners

1936 – 1938 Rear End Update

Friday, August 17th, 2012

A customer recently came to our shop with a big smile about his discovery on the changeover for his 1937 Chevy 1/2 ton. He had changed his engine to either a V8 or a 235 six-cylinder. The closed drive shaft system had to be removed!

After researching the local salvage yards, he discovered the perfect replacement. On a 2005 Chevrolet Colorado pickup, he found a rear end with 6 bolt drums to match his front originals. The leaf spring saddles were in the correct position. The backing plate to backing plate was only one inch wider (1/2 inch per side).

It worked for him, it should be correct for you if you update your driveline.

Installing an Updated Duel Chambered Master Cylinder

Thursday, August 16th, 2012

Warning:  When installing an updated duel chambered master cylinder under the floor of an older GM truck, a brake line modification may be necessary.

It is not acceptable to allow the modified brake line to touch or be very close to the exhaust pipe.  During long trips, the exhaust heat can cause a rise in the brake fluid temperature to near boiling level.  Modern master cylinders do not have a vented cap to release line pressure so fluid will be forced out through wheel cylinders.  The early single chambered caps are vented to prevent this.

Check your brake lines on non-original trucks.  Do not allow a safer system to leave you without brakes.

American Ingenuity

Friday, August 10th, 2012

Needed are some logs without bark and a table saw. Cut in half and add tongue and groove. You have a truck flat bed!

1939 – 1946 Grilles

Friday, August 10th, 2012

To keep General Motors truck costs down, Chevrolet and GMC ½ through 2 ton shared many components during the late 1930’s through the 1950’s. However, when it came to the grille, the focal point of the truck, changes had to be very noticeable.

The truck designers were limited in creating a new grille as both makes would still have the same front fenders and hood. For these limitations, the designers actually did quite well. They almost made them able to be exchanged from one make to another. On the 1941-46, only the small filler panel between the grille and fender top had to be slightly modified.

The attached photos show how two grilles can be different and yet fit in almost identical sheet metal areas of the trucks.


1939-40 GMC

1939 Chevrolet

1940 Chevrolet

1941-46 GMC

1941-46 Chevrolet

1936-46 GMC Taillights

Monday, July 2nd, 2012


1936-46 GMC Taillights

Though things were shared between GMC and Chevrolet trucks, General Motors made sure many items remained very different. The GMC truck dealers preferred very few things to be similar to Chevrolet. Their customers needed to see an almost stand-alone truck with the higher price they were paying.

One very obvious difference is the change in taillights. There is no comparison. The massive GMC stamped steel one piece bracket combined with a redesigned 4 inch taillight makes the pair a “one of a kind”.

Finding any of these parts during a total 1936-46 GMC pickup restoration has become almost impossible. It is said a shop is attempting to remake the bracket, however, if that happens the taillight will be almost as big of a project to get. The light is not being reproduced.

Hint: This taillight was also used on the center of a Chevrolet station wagon tailgates from 1949 through 1952.

1936-46 GMC Taillights 1936-46 GMC Taillights

Solving Bad Gasoline Problems

Monday, June 18th, 2012

Leaving your truck, car, or most all gasoline operated equipment in storage is asking for trouble!  Many of us, as hobbyists, collect more cars and trucks than we will drive a least monthly.  They sit in the back of your garage or are stored across town in a friend’s garage, barn, etc.

Three to five years later when it is time to move them, they usually won’t start.  You find in some cases, you cannot even get fuel to the carburetor.

After placing the blame on the carb, fuel pump, or filter, you finally (after hours of work) it comes down to bad gasoline.  How did this happen?

The answer is simple.  In today’s world ethanol is added to some gasoline as much as 10%.  It gives more fire power to the gasoline that has been reduced in octane partially with additives that help lower air pollution.

This ethanol (alcohol) is damaging to many rubber and neoprene seals in your fuel system.   Even worse, with the formula of modern gasoline plus ethanol, it will even change to sludge in your fuel system including the tank during long storage.  Additives placed in ethanol gas to prevent fuel deterioration is said to be effective not more than about 1 ½ years.

All this spells “Big Money” to clean your fuel system. Just taking your fuel tank out of your vehicle, having it cleaned at a radiator repair shop (there aren’t many of these businesses anymore) will cost a minimum of $300.00.

We recently visited a small engine repair shop where 30 hedge trimmers, chain saws, and weed whackers were waiting to be repaired.  The shop owner said 95% were there because of using gasoline with ethanol.

The answer to prevent this problem may be easier than you think.   If possible STOP using gasoline with ethanol in your vehicles that are rarely driven or started.  In our state, Missouri, there is no ethanol in the premium grade gasoline http://e0pc.com/MO.php.  This maybe the answer in your area.  Check with your state and see if your premium gas is ethanol free.

Some of you may remember the days prior to the 1970’s when you bought a vehicle that had been sitting 5 to 10 years.  The gasoline smelled terrible but the motor would start.  If it had brakes, you could even drive around the block.  There was no alcohol in the gasoline.

Use premium gasoline in your stored vehicles or any yard equipment with limited use if it is without ethanol.

In Missouri, the approximately .20¢ extra per gallon for premium fuel far outweighs the headaches later!!

Solving Bad Gasoline Problems

1938 GMC 1/2 Ton Engine

Tuesday, March 20th, 2012

It’s 1938 and the GMC division of General Motors is entering its third year of small truck production.  Prior to 1936, the GMC line consisted of only larger trucks normally bought by businesses and government agencies for heavy hauling.  The Great Depression was in full swing and GMC needed more sales to add to their financial bottom line.  To help sales and even save some of their dealers from bankruptcy, GMC began to market light trucks in 1936.

When GMC developed their first 1/2 and 3/4 ton pickups (T14 and T16), they had no smaller engines that would fit these light weight trucks.  They wanted no part of using the low oil pressure six cylinder engine in the Chevrolet trucks.  Knowing their own small light weight full oil pressure six cylinder was under development (to be introduced in 1939) they had to find a temporary engine.

The answer was in the Oldsmobile Division.  Their strong inline six cylinder flat head engine was just what GMC needed.  It was used for the three years prior to the introduction of GMC’s own overhead valve full pressure engine in 1939.

One exception to this rule was in the 1/2 ton 1938 pickup.  Possibly for economic reasons, the Pontiac inline six cylinder flat head engine was used in the small 1/2 ton during 1938.  It was hoped this would lower the retail price on the 1/2 ton just enough to help GMC dealers better compete with the small pickup competition that were all fighting for the limited sales during the depression years.

The following two photos show a rebuilt 1938 GMC engine owned by Ron Loos of Redding, California.  This Pontiac engine will soon be returned to his 1938 GMC.  The most interesting part of this engine block is the Pontiac Indian head crest cast in the right side.  GMC used it just as they bought it from the Pontiac Division of General Motors in 1938!

Photos by Ron Loos, Redding, CA

1938 GMC 1/2 Ton Engine 1938 GMC 1/2 Ton Engine

1941 – 1946 Chevy / GMC Steering Wheel

Wednesday, December 21st, 2011


We have received so many requests over the years for the 1940 – 1946 Chevrolet / GMC steering wheels, we decided to make an exact replica. They are now finished and soon to be shipped from the factory. These steering wheels are complete with correct metal internal parts, non-metal exterior with ridges, and even the two proper colors available 65 years ago.

The result is a show quality copy of the GM original steering wheels. We already have complete the horn parts that fit in the steering wheel hubs.

To go directly to the steering wheel on our website, please click the buy parts now button.

1939-46 1/2 Ton Suburban/Panel Gas Tanks

Tuesday, November 29th, 2011

The gas tanks are totally different on the more common pickup versus the panel truck/suburban body, though the two frame rails, drive train, and front sheet metal are the same on each 1939-46 ½ ton.

On pickups the 18 gallon tank sets comfortably and safely within the seat riser and below the seat cushion. Over a million of these pickups were sold during this production period.

The panel truck and suburban were totally different animals. They had no protective seat riser. In fact, there was not even a passenger seat in most panel trucks. For protection, their 16 gallon gas tank was placed inside of the right frame rail and under the body. This gives the tank the safety of the frame rail and being in front of the rear axle. In the attached photos, the totally different shape of the panel and Suburban is quite obvious.

Gas tank removed from a 1941 panel truck.

1939-46 1/2 Ton Suburban/Panel Gas Tanks 1939-46 1/2 Ton Suburban/Panel Gas Tanks
1939-46 1/2 Ton Suburban/Panel Gas Tanks 1939-46 1/2 Ton Suburban/Panel Gas Tanks

Under the seat tank (usually on smaller trucks)

Chevrolet Engine Oil Pump Screens

Thursday, October 27th, 2011

In the days when car and truck owners as well as mechanics did maintenance, GM made these responsibilities much less complicated.  An excellent example was the screen below the engine oil pump.

Due to no oil filters and no detergent additive in the motor oil (to keep dirt in suspension), the oil pump screen was necessary.  Tiny dirt particles settled to the bottom of the oil pan as was expected.  The small dirt particles finally became dirt chunks stuck to the bottom of the oil pan.

GM wanted no chance that a chunk or clot of dirt might be drawn to the pump.  Thus, oil pulled into the pump had to pass through this screen.

These photos show several early screens used by various Chevrolet six cylinder engines.  Note the used screen on the 1937-53  216 engine.  Its rounded screen is held in place by a single wire.  The wire can easily be unhooked from the housing.  The screen then drops out for easy cleaning.

Chevrolet Engine Oil Pump Screens
1929-36
Chevrolet Engine Oil Pump Screens Chevrolet Engine Oil Pump Screens
1937-53 wire holding screen 1937-53 wire unhooked to remove screen

An Inner-Line Oil Filter

Monday, October 10th, 2011

An Inner-Line oil filter from Long Island, New York!  Rarely seen today but a popular early aftermarket option.  It secures to the engine block after removing the oil distribution cover.  No oil lines.  No moving the horn forward to make room for the intake manifold mounted oil canister.

Inner-Line Oil Filter Inner-Line Oil Filter
Inner-Line Oil Filter

Mice Love Old Chevy Trucks

Wednesday, September 21st, 2011

Short of cats? When older vehicles are left unattended, mice find a way to get inside. It’s their natural instinct! The damage they do with their families over a few years is a disaster to metal. They don’t seem to leave the nest when their bladder says “it’s time”.

This nest was recently found inside a 1941 Chevrolet ½ ton door when the inside panel was removed. There it was as you see it, the past home for many generations of mice. They must have damaged many surrounding textile items to gather this size of a nest.

Mice Love Old Chevy Trucks Mice Love Old Chevy Trucks

See below this 1940 Chevy upper air dam under the hood and floorboard section in front of the seat riser. What a perfect place for a mouse house. Out of the reach of cats, hawks, snakes, wind and rain! The little guys just keep bringing in more nesting materials. They make more and more babies and of course we know what else they do that rusts out the sheet metal.
Mice Love Old Chevy Trucks

1941 Chevrolet Panel Truck Interior

Friday, September 9th, 2011

I found these pictures among some papers stored 16 years ago. The owner of this 1941 panel truck is forgotten, however it is understood why these pictures were taken and placed in storage. Even that long ago, a very original ’41 panel was almost never found.

In this case, it was the interior that was the attention getter. Yes, the inside had been repainted. That was the easy part! It is the seat, bedwood, and storage compartment lid that are so pure. The seat is not only 1941, but the upholstery is very important. It is the same as when it came off the assembly line. Even the threads are still secured well to the vinyl panels. A unique small storage compartment in the floor to the right of the seat has a wood lid! Could this be due to cost cutting on a lower production work vehicle? Yes, it is the correct cover!

The wood planks in the bed from the rear of the seat panel to the back door are black, not varnished. Note: The metal bed strips. The two outer ridges extend slightly above the wood surface. This protects the wood from being continually rubbed by sliding miscellaneous boxes.

For the perfectionist, these photos are proof of how it was when the dealer offered the panel trucks 70 years ago!

1941 Chevrolet Panel Truck
Driver’s seat in correct position
1941 Chevrolet Panel Truck
Bottom side of wood toolbox lid.
1941 Chevrolet Panel Truck
Right side of driver’s seat.
1941 Chevrolet Panel Truck
Wood toolbox lid beside toolbox.
1941 Chevrolet Panel Truck
Driver’s seat moved forward. Dangerous during stops. Hauled merchandise can slide forward pinning driver to steering wheel.
1941 Chevrolet Panel Truck
Wooden lid (with finger hole) over toolbox. On right side of drivers seat. Covered if there is an optional passenger seat.

1937 to Early 1938 Chevrolet /GMC Gas Tank and Seat Cushions

Monday, August 22nd, 2011

So unusual to place a gas tank under the seat with no fill pipe outside the cab! To engineer this big change for 1937 was expensive and very different from earlier years when it was under the bed. Why was this done? What advantages could this have been over an outside fill spout? Was gasoline theft during the depression years a big problem?

To add gasoline on a 1937, the right lower cushion half was raised up toward the back which exposed the threaded ‘bung’ on the surface of the tank. It meant a person stood outside by the right side of the cab, raised the cushion half and added fuel. This is how it was done! If it was raining or snowing, the driver or the attendant stood there fueling. Maybe you kept an umbrella stored in this small cab for emergencies. Maybe gas station employees knew that when a 1937 Chevrolet or GMC truck drove in to get gas in the rain, a raincoat was needed. If some gasoline was spilled while filling, the vapor was smelled throughout the cab. If you were a cigarette smoker, well—–!!!

We were fortunate to recently obtain a set of 1937 original seat cushions. Even the upholstery on the two lower halves was still intact. The non-spout gas tank from the same truck came in the set.

Before they were requested by a serious collector, pictures had to be taken. Finding a pure set again in one place would probably be impossible.

An interesting feature is the plywood bottom on the right side removable cushion. The rectangular hole in the plywood prevented the springs from ever sagging and touching the electric gas sending unit. This must have been placed there to also protect the gas tank and bung from contact with a passenger’s weight on the seat. Engineers knew that a spark from an electric short near gas vapor would be a disaster!

We think these photos will be very interesting to the 1937 GM truck enthusiast. This way of tank filling continued into early 1938. Probably during the depression years, the manufacturer used their extra bodies and tanks that were left over from 1937 until supplies were depleted. Of course, this changeover would vary depending on the assembly plant.

The in- cab gas tank is also unique. It lies neatly inside the seat riser. The twist cap (bung) hole for adding fuel is at least 10′ away from the sending unit (protection from a gasoline pump add nozzle). For some reason the tank is built with two drain holes. One is always plugged and therefore the tank can be used in two type cabs. Maybe the gasoline outlet is different for right or left hand drive trucks!

Both Cushions have original upholstery Easily removable wood bottom half cushion. Note: the 2 small blocks to keep cushion secure on the seat riser.
Open spring half cushion for driver Both cushions raised above gas tank.
Plywood notch fits above gasoline sending unit. Sending unit in place.
Gasoline add bung and adjacent air vent. Open bung during refueling.
Top of tank. Note: Sending unit, bung, and air vent. Bottom of tank. Note: 2 Gas outlets.

Amendment to 1937 to Early 38 Chevrolet / GMC Gas Tank and Seat Cushions:

Several years after the above article was posted, a pair of original bottom cushions appeared at our shop. The owner stated they were from a 1937 pickup that had been in the family since it was a year old.

As the underside is covered with a sheet of rusted thin metal, it would appear it is original GM. We now wonder if the wood plywood bottom in the first article is factory installed or the result of a very skilled carpenter attempting to add additional years to a deteriorated set of original cushions. You be the judge!

Speedometers to Go…

Monday, August 15th, 2011

Rebuilt Speedometers for Chevy Trucks & GMC Trucks


Quality Rebuilt Speedometers

When your older truck needs a rebuilt speedometer, think of us! Our company, in combination with a local specialized shop, provides a quality product that you will be proud to place in your vehicle.

With most new repair parts, no longer available, we obtain used speedometers from across the country. Only the best parts are removed. These are combined with available new components to create a quality finished product. The following photos show various stages in the repair process.

Speedometers

Work Bench

Parts Inventory

Finished Products

1941-1946 Park light and Headlight Assemblies

Monday, June 20th, 2011


At the beginning of the 1941 Chevrolet and GMC truck body style, the parking light assembly was placed on top of the headlight bucket.  This was the first time both were placed on the fender as a pair.  All worked well together.  To save tooling costs, GM chose to add a pre-existing assembly from the year before on the 1940 Pontiac car.  No changes were made from this Pontiac park light assembly except its long sheet metal top was now painted and not chromed.

Overseas during World War II, when civilian front fenders were used on GM military trucks (instead of the more famous flat fender ‘army truck’ style) General Motors created a parking light that emitted a small strip of light to be seen at a shorter distance.

Beginning in 1942 and continuing through mid 1947 (when this body design was discontinued), GM used a much less expensive park light housing on civilian trucks.  A one piece stamped metal cover was attached to the headlight bucket for a fraction of the cost as in 1941.  This also used a smaller less expensive glass lens.

Therefore during this 6 ½ year truck production (1941-Mid 1947) the same headlight buckets were on Chevrolet and GMC trucks.  The difference was their hole punching which adapted to changes in parking light assemblies.

1942-45 Military

1942-45 Military

NOTE:   THE 1941 PHOTO WILL FOLLOW SOON

1936-37 GMC Grills

Wednesday, April 27th, 2011


What a rare occurrence! At the 2011 America Truck Historical Society Convention in South Bend, Indiana, we found both a 1936 and a 1937 restored GMC truck with the correct grill — each at different booths. You can go to every truck show for many years and never see even one. Therefore, we just had to get a few photos and make some comments. After all, this may never happen again.

The 1936 grill consists of seven vertical .3′ wide hollow chrome bars all the same size. The length is 25 1/4′. The notches in the receiving die cast pieces (hold the verticals in place) in the top and bottom are the same for each bar.

By 1937-38 there was a change in the center vertical bar. It became wider. It changed from .3′ in 1936 to .625′. It was also tapered back to align with the positioning of the other side bars. The overall length was shortened to 24′.

The notches in the die cast top and bottom receiving pieces are therefore different due to the width change in the center bar. They may look the same on the outside but are not where they attach to the vertical bars. See photo. Chrome was not used to add to the appearance. These bars were painted silver.


1936 GMC Grill

1937 GMC Grill

1937 upper grill bar extension front view

1937-38 bottom view

1936 1/2 Ton Wheels

Wednesday, March 30th, 2011


General Motors was coming out of the wire wheel era by 1936. This as well as wood spokes had been a standard with most cars and light trucks since the beginning at the turn of the century. The new stamped steel wheels on Chevrolet 1/2 tons were easier to produce, and was less susceptible to side damage on rough terrain or in an accident.

We find that both 17′ design 1/2 ton wheels were available in 1936, the transition year. In 1935 all 1/2 ton used wires and all 1937′s had stamped steel wheels.

The two attached photos are Chevrolet promotional pictures from 1936. These 1/2 tons are the same except for the wheels.

NOTE: GMC’s first entry into the 1/2 ton market was 1936. These used the new stamped steel artillery wheels like the later 1936 Chevrolet.

Technical Articles

Friday, March 18th, 2011

Over the many years we have collected a wealth of knowledge working with Chevrolet and GMC trucks from the years 1934 – 1972. We have gathered our Tech Articles, write-ups and how to’s and divided them into categories. You will find a list of helpful Articles that will help you get your old truck looking and running like new again.

1934, 1946 Chevy, GMC Trucks 1947, 1955 Chevy & GMC Trucks 1955, 1966 Chevy & GMC Trucks 1967, 1972 Chevy & GMC Trucks

Jim Carter Truck Parts….

Your #1 Source for 1934 – 1972 Chevy & GMC Truck Parts!

1938 Complete Wood Bed

Wednesday, March 2nd, 2011



In the Chevrolet truck assembly plant in Petone, New Zealand near the capital city of Wellington, a bed was not part of the pickup. This was in the 1930′s through mid 1940′s. The reason was to keep cost lower and to sell more trucks. The two rear fenders were wired flat to the frame for the new owner’s future use. This new owner could then have a deck or bed of his choice made locally. Most were made as a flat platform.

Robert O’Keeffe of Wanganui, New Zealand decided he wanted a bed on the 1938 pickup he was restoring like those seen on US trucks. He went a little further than many restorers. As a woodworker, he decided to make a ‘total’ wood bed and even use an exotic wood!

Check these photos. Rob is obviously a woodworking artist. The truck is a ‘head turner’ at any show.

What a project!

With the interest he received from the recent article on our website, he is considering offering these wood beds to others. The price in US dollars will be about $4,000.00 but this depends on the year and length.

Rob even knows a special freight company that sends merchandise weekly from only New Zealand to Los Angeles by ship. They arrange all truck line connections. The low price is surprising!

You can contact Rob @ okjoiner@xtra.co.nz

1938 complete wood bed 1938 complete wood bed 1938 complete wood bed 1938 complete wood bed 1938 complete wood bed 1938 complete wood bed 1938 complete wood bed 1938 complete wood bed 1938 complete wood bed 1938 complete wood bed 1938 complete wood bed 1938 complete wood bed 1938 complete wood bed

 

1934-1936 Side Mount Spare Tire

Friday, December 17th, 2010



During the early years, most roads were not paved and the quality of tires was far from that of today. Thus, tire repair was very big business. It was necessary for vehicle manufacturers to provide the easiest access to the often needed spare tire. Part of driving a car or truck was knowing how to change a tire.

On the 1936 and older light trucks, the tire storage space was limited. GM chose to place a well in the front fender and a long vertical rod from the frame rail to the cowl for the tire and wheel support clamp. A long nut is threaded to the top of the rod and tightens a curved metal.

This nut could be quickly removed by the wheel lug nut wrench. The tire and wheel was then quickly removed from the fender well.

Replacement hard parts for this side mount system are not being reproduced. Originals must be restored. The rubber grommet that protects the cowl and fender metal from the side mount hardware is available from Jim Carter Truck Parts along with a few other full stocking dealers.

NOTE: The Chevrolet 1/2 ton (1934-1936) placed the well in the right front fender. The 1936 GMC (first year for the 1/2 ton) was in the left front fender. The support hardware is the same. Just another way of the two marquis showing their individuality with limited expense.

1934 1936 side mount spare tire

1934 1936 side mount spare tire

1934 1936 side mount spare tire

1934-1936 Vacuum Wiper Motor

Friday, December 17th, 2010



This little vacuum wiper motor has such a unique appearance! They have become quite rare in recent years.

Manufactured by Trico for just this truck, it fits above the windshield frame on the left side of cab. A dealer accessory for the right side.

They have sometimes been called a “sweetheart” wiper motor due to their strange appearance.

1934-1936 vacuum wiper motor

1934-1936 vacuum wiper motor

Split Rim Wheels

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

Article courtesy of Rob English (rob@oldgmctrucks.com)



The issue of multiple piece rims and safety comes up frequently. There seems to be a quick rush to judgment about any rim that has more than one piece, and while certain types of multiple piece rims have indeed been outlawed and are no longer made, many others are not only still in service, they are still made new.

1947-1954 light duty trucks offered split rims in 1/2 ton (optional only) up to 1 ton trucks. Many people are unaware that there was a 1/2 ton two piece 15″ six lug rim option available in GMCs and I presume Chevy too. More often than not, we run into eight lug two and three piece rims on 3/4 ton and one ton trucks and these are the subject of most of the misinformation.

There were two types of split rims offered originally a 3/4 ton GMC; 15″ TWO piece split rims (Kelsey-Hayes type WK-3), and optional 17″ THREE piece split rims (Kelsey-Hayes type WK-4)

The two piece split rim uses a lock ring that is fixed and is one solid piece. There’s a notch in the rim where you can remove and reinstall the bead retainer ring while mounting and breaking down tires. To remove, you tip the ring at an angle and then slip it by the notch. To mount, do the opposite. This type DOES NOT require prying apart the ring and if you try to pry it off, you’ll ruin ix

The 17″ split rims originally would have been the Kelsey-Hayes type WK-4 and are three pieces; the rim, the bead ring, and the lock ring. They are put together pretty much the same way they do now-a-days on big truck rims. The tire goes on the rim, then the ring slips on and then the third ring is “zipped” on/off using a sledge hammer and pry bar.

The safety of these rims is directly dependent upon their overall condition. I have split rims on all three of my vintage GMCs. You will find knowledgeable truck tire places will work on them without hesitation and car tire places will go screaming in circles with their hair on fire spewing misinformation about “suicide” rims which may or may not be applicable, but does more to spook people than inform them with facts.

I have many many miles on my original split rims and find them to be great for my purposes. Others may have different views of what works for them. See the illustration below to understand the three basic types of original stock rims you’ll find on the old GMC trucks.

View PDF Chart of 1947-1954 Split Rims Click Here

Jim Carter follow- up on this article by Rob English:

I have three 1 to 1 ½ ton Chevy’s that were restored at least 10 years ago.  They all have the correct split rim wheels.  There has been absolutely no problem with any of them.

The tire quality in today’s world is so superior to that of 50 years ago!  In the 1950’s I would see someone on the road changing a flat tire almost every two weeks.  Now, it has changed to about once in 6 months.

Suggestion:  To improve the appearance of your split rims, zinc plate (like GM did when new) or paint the small lock ring silver.  This will nicely contrast with the painted wheel.  You might say they even look a little like white walls!  It really helps the appearance!  See photos.

1 ½ and 2 Ton ¾ and 1 Ton

Lost Engine Numbers

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

GM trucks titled prior to the mid-1950′s were usually registered using the stamped engine number not the body digits pressed in the door ID plate. This practice has created many problems in later years as states became stricter in titling.

Unfortunately, many older vehicles outlast their engine and owners rarely rebuild the originals. To save time and certainly expense, a rebuilt unit or a used one from another vehicle would often be installed. This worked great until years later when state safety inspections began or the vehicle was sold out of state. With a prior engine transplant, there was no ID numbers that would match the title.

Even today, this problem occurs as older trucks with different engines are pulled out of barns and from the property line of a farmer’s back field.

Lost Bumper Bolt

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

On 1937-55 1/2 and 3/4 ton rear bumpers there exists an unused center square bumper bolt hole that sometimes brings up questions from restorers. “Why does this hole exist and what is it purpose?” The answer relates to the attitude toward trucks during those years. They were for work and keeping their production cost low was a priority.

The bumpers during 1937-47 were the same front and rear. The center hole at the front held a vertical steel bracket which was needed if the truck was hand cranked. Rather than make a 4 hole rear bumper, GM simply used their front on the rear. Even in 1947-55 with a slightly different horizontal shape, the factory 5 hole punch was used on front and rear. Therefore, the rear bumper hole has no purpose. To cover this hole, GM produced a special bumper bolt that has become very rare. To save costs (it is a surprise that anything was used) GM created a one inch long stud held in place with a sheet metal speed nut. It has no threads and its head is covered with a stainless cap so it looks like the other bumper bolts from a distance.

Most of these original rare filler bolts will have dents and scrapes on the stainless cap. A skilled person can place a new stainless cover from a more common replacement bolt and make this rare unit look like new.

lost bumper bolt

GMC Long Bed

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

Of the many differences between the Chevrolet and GMC 1/2 ton during the early years (1936-54), the GMC offering of a long bed pickup box was one of the more noticeable. Only GMC provided this option. To obtain this extra bed length on a Chevrolet, the buyer ordered a 3/4 ton.

This difference existed with the first GMC pickup in 1936 and continued through the end of the Advance Design series in 1955. Possibly the reasoning for this was the horsepower difference between these two marquis. The base 216 six cylinder Chevrolet engine provided 92 hp. The standard 228 GMC six boasted 100 hp.

To get the approximately nine inch extra GMC chassis length not only were the two frame rails longer but the drive shaft was extended. GMC engineers did this by developing an extension which was the connecting length between the standard short bed closed drive shaft and the rear of the transmission. None of this interchanges with a Chevrolet and both makes use a totally different drive shaft design on their 3/4 ton series.

The adjacent photo shows this unique connector link installed in its GMC. A 7 3/8 inch steel jack-shaft is surrounded by a cast iron housing (it is still a closed drive shaft) and includes an extra u-joint, bearing, and seal. Though, a strongly built drive shaft system, this portion becomes the long bed 1/2 ton’s weak link after 50 years of use and abuse. Without a doubt this link has performed almost flawlessly beyond the miles expected by its designers. However, it does have its long term limitations. The many prior miles, lack of regular maintenance, and occasionally overloading the truck makes the failure of an original in today’s world a definite possibility. Watch for sources for the rare replacement parts in this connector link just in case. Otherwise surprise damage in this area can keep your GMC 1/2 ton long bed out of service for quite some time.

long bed 1

long bed 2

long bed 3

Home Made Garage

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

When you would like to restore your truck and no workshop is available, there is a solution. Most all the repairs can occur in a temporary shop and at a very low cost.

Jim Valano of Marion, Indiana is a true example of ‘American Ingenuity.’ He purchased a ‘canvas storage tent’ and assembled it at a convenient location. He even made the floor using the backside of used carpet on top of sheet plastic. Its roll-up sides are adjusted for the weather.

Jim’s 1957 Chevrolet ½ ton is now almost restored and most of the work occurred in this canvas enclosure. It can later be removed and stored in the original box.

If you need a building for your restoration, this may be your answer. Just check with your city for possible zoning restrictions!

home made garage 1

home ,ade garage 2

home made garage 3

First GMC Light Duty Pick Up Truck

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

Prior to the mid-1930′s, the two truck divisions of General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC, were mostly independent companies. If you wanted a 1-1/2 ton and smaller truck, Chevrolet (since 1918) could provide the model just right for your needs. If you needed a 2-ton and larger, GMC was the division to contact. They had been a large truck specialist even before 1920.

A gradual overlap began in mid-1936 with the introduction of the new “low cab” body. GMC brought out a line of light trucks in direct competition with Chevrolet. They were to give their struggling GMC dealerships additional sales during the Great Depression by fulfilling their customer’s light duty hauling needs. These new trucks shared most sheet metal with Chevrolet as well as transmissions, front suspension, wheels and differentials. A few minor changes were the grille, hood sides, lettered tailgate and hubcaps; however, the major difference was the engine.

At that time GMC did not produce a small engine that could fit their new light duty trucks. Their totally new small six-cylinder overhead valve power plant was still three years away. The solution was to use a pre-existing engine from one of the General Motors other divisions. They adopted the 213 cubic inch six-cylinder flat head (valves in the block) engine from Oldsmobile. Its power, size and reliability in cars made it the best choice and replacement parts were already available from the Oldsmobile division.

This proven engine in combination with the new low cab body proved successful and allowed GMC to begin gaining ground in the small truck market.

This 213 full oil pressure insert bearing engine (updated by Oldsmobile in 1937 to 230) was main source of power during the early years of smaller GMC trucks, 1936-38. One exception was in the half-ton pickup in 1938. For this model and year only, GMC now used a different smaller flat head six-cylinder. It came from the Pontiac car division and it even has the Pontiac Indian head symbol cast in the right side of the engine block. It had 223 cubic inches. The 230 was retained on GMCs larger than 1/2-tons.

Few of these light duty GMC survive today. They not only experienced the usual heavy work jobs as trucks, but with World War II new truck shortages meant few GMCs were set idle in storage.  After the war, most were worn down to where it cost more to repair them than making a large down payment on a new truck.  Thus, the majority were lost to the crusher.

first gmc light duty 1

1937 GMC, Drawing by Bryant Stewart, farley, MA.

first gmc light duty 2

1936 GMC
(Photo compliments of Patrick Kroeger at dv200@aol.com)
Not to be used without written permission.

Demise of the GM Panel Truck

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

Even before the 1920′s, light commercial hauling using panel trucks had found a loyal growing customer base. With increasing numbers of small businesses and the population gradually moving to the cities, the panel truck found a place in our society. By the 1930′s, most all truck manufacturers had designed a panel body to fit on their existing pickup truck chassis.

Advantages of the panel over other trucks for small business are numerous. Their weather-tight body protects cargo from rain, snow, driving wind and summer sun. Very important is the security feature. Merchandise is out of sight and can be locked. They are economical over big trucks and much more maneuverable than the larger commercial vehicles. Panel trucks are just right for moving in crowded streets and narrow alleys.

demise panel truck 1

Retired panel trucks used for storage (above)

Even at the end of the panel truck’s life, auto wrecking yards often kept a few for storage. The bodies were excellent for protecting used parts (starters, generators, bearings, clutches, etc.) from the weather.

During the mid 1960′s, a major drop in panel truck popularity began. The vehicle that was once wanted by most every business in America was now being overlooked because of a ‘new kid on the block.’ The General Motors G-series van had arrived! This new van with short nose, had better turning radius, more cargo space on a like wheelbase, and a side freight door. It was the truck to buy. On most models the price was even lower.

The panel truck could not compete! It’s sales began dropping almost every year. Their popularity became so low that GM discontinued the vehicle even before the end of the 1967-1972 body style. This tells how the sales had dropped. Production was stopped even though the assembly line was operating and the tooling was able to continue stamping the body panels. In 1970, General Motors called it quits. The panel truck was history!

demise panel truck 2

1970 G Series Van (above)

With the major sales decline during the final years, you will see less of the 1967-70 units than of the earlier designs.

Even finding a rough final series panel is a rare occurrence. The newest is now over 30 years old. They were built for work responsibilities. Few were kept out of the weather. Most were owned by companies and driven by their employees.

demise panel truck 3

Believe It or Not

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

It’s the height of World War II. The Japanese have control of the rubber plantations in Indonesia. The few tires available are reserved for military use.  And, the rationing of gasoline stops most U.S. vehicle operation.  But, there were still trucks needed on farms, keeping telephone lines operational, and supplying store commodities for their city.  For these selected truck uses, new tires could sometimes be available.

What did individuals do with no replacement tires for their trucks and cars?

We have talked with several elderly people over the years.  They recall using real ‘American Ingenuity’ to keep tires on their limited-use vehicles.  It was called ‘booting’.  Essentially, they searched for non repairable tires in salvage yards.  Then, they removed the bead that touched the rim with a small hand saw.  The tread part was then wrapped around the mounted tire that was still holding air.  Wear stopped on the inner tire and the once worthless outer tire could now be placed back in service.

It was said to work well at slower speeds. This was a creative idea that helped keep our country mobile during a time of great sacrifices and shortages. Sorry, we wish we had a picture!

1941-1946 1 1/2 Ton Front Bumper

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

A major change in large truck Chevrolet front bumpers occurred during there years. Prior to 1946 the 1 1/2 ton bumpers and braces were little more that a heavier guage design of the smaller 1/2 ton.

The big bumper change was in 1946. (Possibly this was because Chevrolet introduced its first 2 ton model that year.) Now it was nothing like those on the 1/2 and 3/4 ton.

This new heavier, stronger bumper design continues on GM’s larger trucks to this day.

1941 front bumper

1941 Front Bumper (above)

1946 front bumper

1946 Front Bumper (above)

1939 Right Hand Drive

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

General Motors right hand drive trucks, though unusual in the United States, have always been very popular in specific countries such as Britain, New Zealand, South Africa, and Australia. These vehicles were not produced in the U.S. but came from GM’s large assembly plant in Oshawa, Ontario. Due to reversed dash boards, the change in steering components, differences in starter linkages, and tail light locations, etc., the lower numbers of right hand drive production was kept at this one Canadian assembly plant.

In New Zealand, special marketing laws required at least 25% of each new truck had to be assembled or produced in that country. This was mostly to help provide more local jobs. Thus for many years the GM Canadian facility exported truck parts only to the New Zealand assembly plant in Petone near the capital city of Wellington. Hundreds of freight containers supplying GM truck parts regularly arrived at this New Zealand assembly plant. The specialized parts from Canada were engines, frames, suspension components, disassembled cabs and front sheet metal. The New Zealand plant then assembled the truck and furnished parts they could provide locally. This included (at least in the 1940′s) the wiring harnesses, window glass, a wood cab floor, some rubber parts, an optional flat wood deck, etc.

To keep within the 25% government parts and labor requirement, a truck bed with sides as supplied on U.S. vehicles was not included. A locally made wood deck could be added during assembly. Either with or without this deck, the two rear pickup metal rear fenders from the Canadian plant were wired or otherwise secured at the rear of the cab. The finished vehicle was delivered this way to local New Zealand GM dealers. The lack of a bed would also allow the budget minded buyer to construct his own deck or hauling platform and better afford the new truck.

A New Zealand trailer manufacturer during these early years used pickup rear fenders on their finished product. Their small general purpose trailers were usually equipped with these new metal pickup fenders. A retired 88 year old manager of this company remembers having standing orders with all New Zealand pickup dealers (not just GM) to purchase their extras. This saved additional expense on their completed trailers.

The photos below are of three excellent 1939 Chevrolet 1/2 ton’s, all assembled at the New Zealand plant.

Their right hand drive feature is unique to American readers, however, these Chevrolets have another very unusual characteristic. As with most 1939 New Zealand Chevrolet trucks, their cab was assembled in the New Zealand Petone plant from pre-stamped pieces, and are a mixture of two types of trucks. The rear of the cabs and door outer sheet metal are of the U.S. 1936-1938 design. The cowl, windshield frame, hood and grill are the 1939-40 style. Yes, they do weld together nicely into a single unit but the horizontal door and hood lines do not match. Reasons for the GM ‘cab mixture’ are not known at this writing, however, it is assumed keeping New Zealand’s costs low was the main factor. Quantities of older 1936-38 style rear cabs, roofs, and door stampings were either already available or the prior tooling still had much remaining life. The lower cost could then be passed on to the retail truck buyer. Just another way of producing the New Zealand 1939 GM truck at the lowest possible price!

Another theory for this unusual combination cab is due to the beginning of World War II. Because of New Zealand’s connection with Great Britain, they entered the war September 2, 1939 over two years before the United States became formally involved. No doubt being in the war created an immediate demand for all trucks in New Zealand. Rather than lose sales while the cab tooling changeover occurred at the Canadian supply plant (1938 to the new design 1939 body) GM continued with the prior sheet metal for their in demand export truck. Exact new styling was not necessary to overseas buyers when the war demand was so high!

Truck #1 – Owned and restored by Steve Jones, Palmerston North, New Zealand

Contact Steve at chevytrucks49@e3.net.nz

A local newspaper ad brought Steve to this basically complete 1939 pickup. It had great potential for a complete restoration and was just what Steve had been wanting. It’s major two year rebuilding started in 1999 and most all work was done personally by the owner, Steve Jones. It is now authentically restored from the ground up. The only observable differences from its 1939 beginning are the addition of a non-New Zealand GM bed with sides and its whitewall tires. Steve even picked an original Chevrolet truck color, Armour Yellow.

One of Steve’s pictures, with this article, features the inside of the cab top without the headliner. Note: the factory welds where the early and late style sheet metal have been joined.

1939 GMC Right Hand Drive

1939 GMC Right Hand Drive

1939 GMC Right Hand Drive

1939 GMC Right Hand Drive

1939 GMC Right Hand Drive


Truck #2 – Owned and restored by Steve Bright, Feilding, New Zealand

This 1939 was bought new by Steve’s grandfather. He used it for it’s first five years on a rural mail delivery route (during World War II) as well as helping with the family sheep and cattle farm. After the war it continued with farm duties plus collected cream from surrounding dairies for a local butter factory. This was done until 1950 when this little ’39 had reached a mileage of 200,000. It was then used for the next 25 years by members of the family on the farm or for trips to town.

Retirement occurred in about 1978 when major mechanical problems developed. It was placed in a barn after having logged over 350,000 miles!! It sat in this same storage place until 1990, when Steve decided to give it a major restoration in honor of his grandfather.

He has now rebuilt it to look like it’s off the assembly line. All worn parts were repaired or replaced. The exception is the hand made bed built during the restoration which results in a longer overhang in the back. The tonneau cover protects the bed bottom and merchandise being transported.

Though the truck looks and drives almost new, it is not a “trailer queen”. Steve Bright has driven it 14,000 miles in the past six years.

1939 GMC Right Hand Drive

1939 GMC Right Hand Drive

1939 GMC Right Hand Drive

1939 GMC Right Hand Drive

1939 GMC Right Hand Drive

Editors Note:The above trucks were closely observed and personally driven during a recent trip to New Zealand. Each has the same unique features, so it can be assumed, they are correct from the factory.

An additional feature of these New Zealand 1939 Chevrolets: The gas tanks were below the bed and cab from the factory, not under the seat as in the U.S.A. The right side of the cab is even notched out to allow the tank to fit higher above the ground.

Steve Bright’s truck still has the original tank. Steve Jones truck gas tank was missing so he placed a replacement unit under the seat as on U.S. built 1939′s.


Truck #3 – Owned and restored by Graham Stewert, Wyndham, New Zealand

Contact Graham at 2 R.D., Wyndham 9892, New Zealand

This little 1939 1/2 ton is on New Zealand’s South Island. Its owner, Graham Stewert, has personally given it a complete restoration with all parts disassembled and then put back in place. Other than engine rebuilding and body repair, the owner did the work!

Graham bought this 1/2 ton un-restored in 2003 with only 76,350 miles. It immediately caught his attention because it was the same as his grandfather bought new in 1939. He well remembers grandfather using it for regular deliveries by the family dairy to homes and a dairy processing plant.

Thus, he decided to build it “bone stock” in memory of his grandfather and how it looked in 1939.

It is now the exact color as grandfather’s 1939 and the engine, transmission, differential, and interior, etc. is like Graham remembers in his younger days. It runs like new and is a pleasure to drive for fun transportation as well as to many vintage auto rallies.

1939 GMC Right Hand Drive

1939 GMC Right Hand Drive

1939 GMC Right Hand Drive

1939 GMC Right Hand Drive

1939 GMC Right Hand Drive

1937-1946 Deluxe Heaters

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

Keeping the passenger area warm in cars and trucks during the winter was always a problem in the early years. Not only were the heater fans and cores small but the vehicles used recirculator heaters. Thus, the air in the cab was recirculated rather than using dry outside cold air being brought inside and warmed. This helped for quicker warming but with more passengers, the additional humidity from breathing caused the windows to fog inside. A wiping cloth would have been needed to clear the windshield.

To address this issue, GM provided an extra feature with the pictured “deluxe” heater. A blower motor attached to the top of the standard heater made it a “deluxe” model. This separate optional motor on top forced warm air into the defroster nozzles and onto the windshield. There were two switches under the dash, one for each motor. In colder climates, it is doubtful the small heater core could supply warm air from the two motors both at the same time! Although this is antiquated by today’s standards, it did allow some relief on colder days.

GM Deluxe Heater 1
Optional Defroster Motor on Top-Estimated 1939
Front GM Deluxe Heater
1940-46
GM deluxe Heater 2
Air intake, back view ‘ Estimated 1939
GM deluxe Heater 2
1940-46
Optional Defroster Assembly- Estimated 1939
Optional Defroster Assembly- Estimated 1939

1940-46

1937-1938 Australian Half Ton

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

The Australian 1937-38 Chevrolet trucks are much like those in the U.S., however on close observation, one can certainly see unique differences. This United States relative is obviously GM but not quite the same.

These Down-Under truck’s final assembly point was in the Holden plant in New South Wales, Australia. (Holden is a branch for GM in that country.) Much of the sheet metal was stamped at the GM Canadian plant in Oshawa, Ontario. Most all the GM trucks in the 1930′s and 1940′s that reached overseas assembly plants were from this Canadian location but unassembled.

In Australia and even in nearby New Zealand, local governments required a certain percentage of truck parts to be manufactured in those countries. This provided jobs for the local population. Parts supplied in Australia would be wiring harnesses, glass, tires, seats, a different design bed, etc.

The current photos we have of Australian 1937-38 1/2 tons are these furnished by Luke Randall from auto gatherings in Eastern Australia. He owns a 1938 to be restored so he has an interest in others of this design. You can contact Luke at lukerandall@hotmail.com.

Items of special interest on these 1937 and 1938 Australian trucks are:

  • The 3 stamped ribs on the can roof
  • A different bed design
  • The wide horizontal panel below the door
  • The double stamped belt on the cowl and door stop near the handle (In the U.S. the belt continues around the cab beghind to the rear under the window)
  • The windshield is two piece not like the one piece 1937-1938 in the U.S.
  • Doors are more rounded at the top
  • Right hand drive

1937-1938 Chevrolet Half Ton

1937-1938 Chevrolet Half Ton 2

1937-1938 Chevrolet Half Ton 3

1937-1938 Chevrolet Half Ton 4

1937-1938 Chevrolet Half Ton 5

Luke and passenger

1937-1938 Chevrolet Half Ton 6

Luke’s 1938 to be restored

1936-1942 Coupe Pick Up

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

1936-1942 Chevy Coupe Pick Up

During the great depression of the 1930′s, almost half of the automakers ceased business forever. Most remaining manufacturers modified their vehicles and advertising techniques to appeal to a very conservative buyer. With limited disposable income the few people willing to purchase a car or truck were very careful.

To help boost or at least hold sales steady, the Chevrolet Division introduced a new model in 1936. It was referred to as the Coupe Pickup. With a small corporate investment a dual purpose vehicle was created to appeal to the buyer with a need for both a car and a pickup.

The new model was a standard coupe with a miniature pickup truck bed placed in the trunk area. This small new bed included wood planks, metal strips, sides, and tailgate much like larger ½ ton pickups. It extended out of the trunk about the distance of the rear bumper. To keep out dust and rain water, a custom made canvas snapped in place between the small bed sides and the coupe trunk edges.

To appeal to the conservative new car buyer during the depression years this vehicle even included a painted coupe deck lid wrapped in several coverings of butcher paper. In this way if the mini-bed was removed, the deck lid could be attached and the owner then had a car.

This unique model was available each year from 1936 through early 1942 when World War II stopped domestic car production. There is almost no survival of the original coupe pickups. The few that made it even to the 1950′s were almost always given their deck lid to transform them to a pure coupe. Few people wanted an older pickup with such limited hauling capacity when they could have a coupe with a somewhat youthful sporty appearance.

No doubt the major weakness of this model was the canvas between the bed and body. It soon deteriorated when the vehicle set outside leaving the trunk area exposed to rain and snow. This was just the beginning of major rust problems which in time totaled the trunk area and maybe even the complete vehicle!

Today, if one of these beds would appear at an antique auto swap meet, almost no one would remember it’s original application. When the Chevrolet lettering was not on the gate, most would pass by thinking it is probably home made for a forgotten use.

1936-1942 coupe puick up 1

1936-1942 coupe pick up 2

1936-1942 coupe pick up

1936-1942 coupe pick up

1934-1946 Truck Tech

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

1934-1946 Chevy Truck Model I.D.

We hope the following information on Axle, Transmission and Model identification will help many of you with your questions. Accuracy was a concern as we compiled this information. Because GM made so many scheduled as well as unscheduled changes, there is much discussion about these changes.

The following is used by permission from Pickups and Panels Magazine and artist Bryant J. Stewart

1934

Series DB…Wheelbase 112…1/2 ton pickup and canopy top pickup, panel, canopy express, spc. pickup/panel, chassis

Series PA/B…..Wheelbase 131..1 1/2 ton truck – single/dual wheels

Series PB…Wheelbase 131…1/2 ton pickup dual wheels

Series PC/D…..Wheelbase 157..1 1/2 ton truck – single/dual wheels

Series PD……Wheelbase 157….1 1/2 ton truck, dual wheels


1935

truck tech 1935

Series EB…Wheelbase…112…1/2 ton pick up panel,canopy express,suburban, spc, pickup/panel chassis and cab.

Series QA/B…..Wheelbase…131…1 1/2 ton truck single and dual wheels

Series QC/D…..Wheelbase…157…1 1/2 ton truck single and dual wheels


1936

truck tech 1936

Series FB…Wheelbase 112…1/2 pick up panel, canopy express, suburban, spc. pickup/panel, chassis and cab.

Series RA…..Wheelbase 131…1 1/2 ton truck single wheels

Series RB…Wheelbase 131…1 1/2 ton truck dual wheels.

Series RC…..Wheelbase 157…1 1/2 ton truck single wheels

Series RD…..Wheelbase 157…1 1/2 ton truck dual wheels


1937

Series GC…Wheelbase 112……1/2 ton pick up, panel, canopy express, suburban carryall, chassis and cab

Series GD…..Wheelbase 122-1/2……3/4 ton pick up, panel, flatbed, stake rack (11″ brakes)

Series GE…..Wheelbase 122-1/2……3/4 ton pick up, panel, flatbed, stake rack (14″ brakes)

Series SA/B…..Wheelbase 131-1/2…..1 1/2 ton chassis and cowl, open express, canopy express

Series SC/D…..Wheelbase 157……1 1/2 ton flatbed, stake rack, single/dual wheels


1938

Series HC…Wheelbase 112…………1/2 ton panel, canopy express, suburban

Series HD…..Wheelbase 120-1/4……3/4 ton pick up, panel, flatbed, stake rack, (11″ brakes)

Series HE…..Wheelbase 122-1/4……3/4 ton pick up, panel, flatbed, stake rack (14″ brakes)

Series TA…Wheelbase 131-1/2……..1 1/2 ton panel canopy express, flatbed, stake rack, single wheels

Series TB…..Wheelbase 131-1/2……1 1/2 ton panel, canopy express, flatbed, stake rack, dual wheels

Series TC…..Wheelbase 157……….1 1/2 ton flatbed, stake/stock dual wheels

Series TD…..Wheelbase 157……….1 1/2 ton flatbed, stake/stock dual wheels


1939

Series JC…Wheelbase 113-1/2………1/2 ton pick up, canopy express, panel, suburban

Series JD…..Wheelbase 123-3/4…….3/4 ton pick up, stake rack, panel, flatbed (11″ brakes)

Series JE…..Wheelbase 123-3/4…….3/4 ton pick up, panel, flatbed, stake rack, (14″ brakes) heavy duty

Series VA/B…..Wheelbase 133………1 1/2 ton panel, canopy express, flatbed, stake rack, single/dual wheels

Series VC/D…Wheelbase 158-1/2……..1 1/2 ton flatbed, stake/stock rack, single/dual wheels

Series VE/F…..Wheelbase 107-5/8……1 1/2 ton COE flatbed, stake rack single/dual wheels

Series VG/H…..Wheelbase 131-1/8……1 1/2 ton COE flatbed, stake rack single/dual wheels

Series VM/N…..Wheelbase 156-5/8……1 1/2 ton COE m-single/n-dual wheels


1940

Series KC…..Wheelbase 113-1/2………1/2 ton pick up, panel, canopy express, suburban

Series KD…..Wheelbase 123-3/4………3/4 ton pick up, stake rack, panel, flatbed (11″ brakes)

Series KE…..Wheelbase 123-3/4………3/4 ton pick up, panel, flatbed, stake rack (14″ brakes) heavy duty

Series KF…..Wheelbase 133………….1 ton panel

Series WA…..Wheelbase 133………….1 1/2 ton panel, canopy express, flatbed, stake rack, single/dual wheels

Series WB…..Wheelbase 158-1/2………1 1/2 ton flatbed, stake/stock rack, single/dual wheels

Series WC…..Wheelbase 193-5/8………School Bus chassis, dual wheels

Series WD…..Wheelbase 107-5/8………1 1/2 ton COE flatbed, stake rack

Series WE…..Wheelbase 131-1/8………1 1/2 ton COE flatbed, stake rack

Series WF…..Wheelbase 156-5/8………1 1/2 ton COE flatbed, stake rack


1941

truck tech 1941

Series AK…..Wheelbase 115………….1/2 ton pick up, panel, canopy express, suburban

Series AL…..Wheelbase 125-1/4………3/4 ton pick up, panel, flatbed, stake rack (11″brakes)

Series AM…..Wheelbase 125-1/4………3/4 ton pick up, panel, flatybed, stake rack (14″ brakes) heavy duty

Series AN…..Wheelbase 134-1/2………1 ton panel

Series YR…..Wheelbase 134-1/2………1 1/2 ton flatbed, canopy express, flatbed, stake rack, single/dual wheels

Series YS…..Wheelbase 160………….1 1/2 ton flatbed, stake/stock rack, single/dual wheels

Series YT…..Wheelbase 195………….School Bus chassis, dual wheels

Series YU…..Wheelbase 109………….1 1/2 ton COE flatbed, stake rack

Series YV…..Wheelbase 132-1/2………1 1/2 ton COE flatbed, stake/stock rack

Series YW…..Wheelbase 158………….1 1/2 ton COE flatbed, stake rack


1942

Series BK…..Wheelbase 115………….1/2 ton pick up, panel, canopy express, suburban

Series BL…..Wheelbase 125-1/4………3/4 ton pick up, panel, flatbed, stake rack (11″ brakes)

Series BM…..Wheelbase 125-1/4………3/4 ton pick up, panel, flatbed, stake rack, (14″ brakes) heavy duty

Series BN…..Wheelbase 134-1/2………1 ton panel, canopy express, flatbed, stake rack

Series MR…..Wheelbase 134-1/2………1 1/2 ton panel, canopy express, flatbed, stake rack, single/dual wheels

Series MS…..Wheelbase 160………….1 1/2 ton flatbed, stake/stock rack , single/dual wheels

Series MY…..Wheelbase 160………….1 1/2 ton school bus chassis

Series MT…..Wheelbase 195………….1 1/2 ton school bus chassis

Series MU…..Wheelbase 109………….1 1/2 ton COE

Series MV…..Wheelbase 132-1/2………1 1/2 ton COE flatbed, stake rack

Series MW…..Wheelbase 158………….1 1/2 ton COE flatbed, stake/stock rack


1946

truck tech 1946

Series 1st CK 2nd DP…..Wheelbase 115………..1/2 ton pick up, panel, canopy express, suburban (1st only)

Series 1st DR…………Wheelbase 125-1/4…….3/4 ton pick up, panel, flatbed, stake rack

Series 1st DS…………Wheelbase 134-1/2…….1 ton pick up, panel, flatbed, stake rack

Series 1st OR 2nd PJ…..Wheelbase 134-1/2…….1 1/2 ton panel, canopy express, flatbed, stake rack

Series 1st OS 2nd PK…..Wheelbase 160………..1 1/2 ton flatbed, stake/stock rack

Series 1st OW 2nd PL…..Wheelbase 160………..1 1/2 ton school bus chassis

Series 1st OY…………Wheelbase 195………..1 1/2 ton school bus chassis

Series 1st OE 2nd PV…..Wheelbase 134-1/2…….1 1/2 ton flatbed, stake rack

Series 1st OF 2nd PW…..Wheelbase 160………..1 1/2 ton flatbed, stake/stock rack

Series 1st OG 2nd PX…..Wheelbase 195………..2 ton school bus chassis

Series 1st OH 2nd PP…..Wheelbase 109………..2 ton COE flatbed, stake rack

Series 1st OI 2nd PR…..Wheelbase 132-1/2…….2 ton COE flatbed, stake/stock rack

Disclaimer: This truck I. D. information is correct and complete to the best of our knowledge and is only to be used as a guide. Pickups ‘n panels and/or the National Chevy/GMC Truck Association, and Jim Carter Truck Parts, make no guarantee of accuracy, and disclaim any liability incurred in the use of this information.

Buy Parts for 1934 to 1946 Trucks

 

1918-1933 Truck Tech

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

1918-33 Chevy Truck Model I.D.

We hope the following information on Axle, Transmission and Model identification will help many of you with your questions. Accuracy was a concern as we compiled this information. Because GM made so many scheduled as well as unscheduled changes, there is much discussion about these changes.

The following is used by permission from Pickups and Panels Magazine and artist Bryant J. Stewart

1918-1933 truck tech

1918

Series 490…Wheelbase 102…1/2 ton light delivery chassis, wagon

Series T…..Wheelbase 125…1 ton worm drive chassis, flare board and curtain top express


1919

Series 490…Wheelbase…102…1/2 ton light delivery chassis, wagon.

Series T…..Wheelbase…125…1 ton worm drive chassis, flare board and curtain top express


1920

Series 490…Wheelbase 102…1/2 ton light delivery chassis, delivery wagon 1 and 3 seat

Series T…..Wheelbase 125…1 ton chassis and cowl, flare board and covered flare express


1921

Series 490…Wheelbase 102…1/2 ton chassis and cowl, open express, covered express 3 seat

Series G…..Wheelbase 120…3/4 ton chassis and cowl, open express, canopy express

Series T…..Wheelbase 125…1 ton chassis, open express, canopy express, canopy express 3 seat


1922

truck tech 1922

Series 490…Wheelbase 102…1/2 ton panel delivery, station wagon

Series G…..Wheelbase 120…3/4 ton cowl cab chassis, express, canopy express

Series T…..Wheelbase 125…1 ton chassis, open express, canopy express, canopy curtain express


1923

Series A/B…Wheelbase 103…1/2 ton chassis, canopy express, panel, station wagon

Series D…..Wheelbase 120-5..1 ton chassis, stake, utility express, delivery, cattle body


1924

Series B/F…Wheelbase 103…1/2 ton chassis, light delivery, panel

Series D/H…Wheelbase 120…1 ton chassis, stake, flare board express, dump, enclosed cab


1925

Series F…..Wheelbase 103…1/2 ton chassis, light delivery (early 1925)

truck tech 1925

Series H…..Wheelbase 120…1 ton chassis (earlt 1925)

Series K…..Wheelbase 103…1/2 ton chassis, light delivery (late 1925)

Series M…..Wheelbase 120…1 ton chassis (late 1925)


1926

Series K…..Wheelbase 103…1/2 ton chassis, light delivery (early 1926)

Series R…..Wheelbase 124…1 ton chassis (early 1926)

Series V…..Wheelbase 103…1/2 ton chassis, light delivery (late 1926)

truck tech 1926

Series X…..Wheelbase 124…1 ton chassis, springfield suburban, screenside, stake rack (late 1926)


1927

Series V…..Wheelbase 103…1/2 ton chassis, light delivery (early 1927)

Series X…..Wheelbase 124…1 ton chassis, springfield suburban, screenside (early 1927)

Series AA….Wheelbase 103…1/2 ton chassis, light delivery (late 1927)

Series LM….Wheelbase 124…1 ton chassis, panel delivery, stake bed (late 1927)


1928

Series AB….Wheelbase 107…1/2 ton chassis, pick up, canopy, panel, screenside and sedan delivery, roadster pick up

Series LO….Wheelbase 124…1 ton panel delivery, stake bed, chassis


1929

truck tech 1929

Series AC….Wheelbase 107…1/2 ton chassis, pickup, canopy, panel, screenside and sedan delivery

Series LQ….Wheelbase 131…1 and 1 1/2 ton chassis


1930

Series AD….Wheelbase 107…1/2 ton chassis, delivery, canopy, deluxe, panel, roadster, screenside, sedan

Series LR….Wheelbase 131…1 1/2 ton truck 1st half

Series LS….Wheelbase 131…1 1/2 ton truck 2nd half


1931

truck tech 1931

Series AE….Wheelbase 109…1/2 ton open/closed cab chassis/puickup, panel, canopy express

Series LT….Wheelbase 131-157…1 1/2 ton truck-single and dual wheels 1st half

Series MA/B…Wheelbase 131…1 1/2 ton truck-single and dual wheels 2nd half

Series MC/D…Wheelbase 157…1 1/2 ton truck-single and dual wheels 2nd half


1932

Series BB….Wheelbase 109….1/2 ton closed cab pickup and canopy top pickup, panel,open and closed cab canopy express, spc. sed. delivery/panel/chassis

Series NA/B..Wheelbase 131….1 1/2 ton truck- single/dual wheels

Series NC/D..Wheelbase 157….1 1/2 ton truck – single and dual wheels


1933

truck tech 1933

Series CB….Wheelbase 109….1/2 ton pickup and canopy top pickup, panel, open and closed cab canopy express, special pickup/panel chassis

Series OA/B..Wheelbase 131….1 1/2 ton truck – single and dual wheels

Series OC/D..Wheelbase 157….1 1/2 ton truck- single and dual wheels


Disclaimer: This truck I. D. information is correct and complete to the best of our knowledge and is only to be used as a guide. Pickups ‘n panels and/or the National Chevy/GMC Truck Association, and Jim Carter Truck Parts, make no guarantee of accuracy, and disclaim any liability incurred in the use of this information.

Screw On ID Plates

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

screw on ID plates

The body I.D. plate – every GM truck had one attached at the factory. Basically it states the vehicle’s gross weight limit (weight of truck plus its maximum allowed load) plus stamped digits that give the assembly plant year, size of truck, month built, and sequential numbers as it came off the production line. These plates are necessary for positive vehicle identification.

A unique characteristic of the 1950 and older GM truck is that the I.D. plate was not riveted at the factory but rather held in place by two small clutch head screws with a hexagon perimeter. Thus a wrench or a clutch driver can tighten or remove them.

Over the years if the two screws begin to loosen, the owner would either retighten them from time to time or often remove the plate for safe keeping. Usually this plate stayed in the glove box or at home and just never got reattached. Thus we find some of these pre-1951 GM trucks with no I.D. plates. In the early years this was often of little concern as most trucks were titled on the engine number.

After 1950 these I.D. Plates were riveted to the door post. Probably not so much to prevent vehicle theft (we lived in a different era) but just to keep them from being lost.

In today’s world this can cause big problems in registering particularly if the transfer is to another state and an I.D. number verification is necessary. Even if the I.D. plate remains secure with screws as it left the factory, a problem may still exist. Unfortunately most inspectors today weren’t even born when these trucks were built. Sometimes an officer refuses to OK the truck, saying that I.D. plates do not come with attaching screws and it is not legal. You now have an uphill battle with an inspector that really believes he is correct.

Yes, you can attach this original scratched and painted-over I.D. plate with rivets. However, what is this inspector going to say when he sees this worn and painted on I.D. plate attached with two new shinny pop rivets? Have you ever been accused of car theft? It is then you wish the truck was titled to the engine!

Remember, on a left hand drive truck (1947-55) the I.D. plate attached to the left door post. It is attached to the opposite side on the right hand drive truck. The two holes for the plate screws or rivets are punched at the factory in both door posts.

Trees and Trucks

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

There couldn’t be an easier place for a tree to grow. If you don’t move your truck for a few years, trees will find it. As they grow wider, the truck bends to fit!

Here no one steps on a tree at the beginning. Lawn mowers can’t reach it.

It’s free to grow.

tree trucks 1

tree trucks 1

trees trucks 2

trees trucks 3

trees trucks 3

White Wall Tires

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

Prior to the 1960′s, trucks were used as work vehicles. On Friday nights, most were parked for the weekend and the family sedan was the transportation vehicle.

It was a conservative era when you bought only basic necessities. A $5.00 grocery purchase was more than most could carry. Finding white wall tires on a truck would have been a rare sight, indeed. Very few cars, except for most luxurious models, would have had white walls even as an option. It should be remembered, that most roads, except highways and those in the main part of town were gravel, dirt, or sprayed annually with tar.

Of course, a dealer would have been happy to install aftermarket white wall tires, if the customer made a specific request. For a price, the dealer would provide any option to keep a satisfied customer and make a few dollars.

On GM trucks, white walls became a factory option in mid-1955, partially because of the introduction of the Chevrolet Cameo and GMC Suburban carrier and also due to more roads becoming paved. These very deluxe pickups, as well as several of the other well appointed 1/2 tons justified a white wall tire for those wanting it all!

Almost none of these deluxe models would have been given their second set of white wall tires. By then, the pickup was older and being used more as a hauler, not for appearance.

Buy Parts for 1934 to 1946 Trucks

 

Wider Wheels on 3/4 Tons

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

When you need more room for wider 8 bolt non-split rim wheels on your stock 1946-1959 Chevrolet or GMC ¾ ton, there is a solution. (The long tie rod ends prevent the use of wheels much wider than the original split rims.) Customers have given us an answer! It is not difficult and uses all original GM parts.

After the left and right tie rod ends from a 1 or 1-1/2 ton. They are about one inch shorter. As their threads are reversed from the ¾ ton design (these replacement ends have male ends), you will need a tie rod from a 1 or 1-1/2 ton with female ends. Yes, they fit into the original arms beside the ¾ ton backing plates.

The tie rod ends are still available new, however, the long tie rod will need to be from a used truck. If you are lucky, the tie rod with ends will come together from the older truck. There is even a good chance the ends will be in great shape and won’t need replacing. If so, mark the position of the ends on the tie rod if you remove them. Another end can be replaced in the exact prior position. In this way your front suspension should stay in alignment and save you money and time in an alignment shop.

Note: If the used tie rod ends are good, remove the old grease. It probably contains road grit and will cause premature wear. Put some heat on the ends before adding new grease through the zirk fitting. This will soften the old grease. It will then come out when new lubricant is added under pressure.

Casting Numbers

Thursday, February 11th, 2010
Casting Number Make Year CID
1970 Chevrolet 1964-1967 292
2135412 GMC 1946-1954 248,270
2193980 GMC 1952-1954 302
2324003 GMC 1955-1963 270
2324004 GMC 1955-1962 302
2404929 GMC 1955-1963 270
2192402 GMC Military 302
289890 Chevrolet 1963-1977 292
328575 Chev/Buick/Olds/Pontiac 1968-1984 250
328576 Chev/Buick/Pontiac 1968-1976 250
328880 Chevrolet 1963-1977 292
329990 Chevrolet 1963-1977 292
358825 Chevrolet 1966-1976 250
3629703 Chevrolet 1950-1952 235
366855 Chev/Buick/Olds/Pontiac 1966-1984 250
3692703 Chevrolet 1950-1952 235
3692708 Chevrolet 1950-1952 235
3692713 Chevrolet 1950-1952 235
3693374 Chevrolet 1942-1949 235
37001481 Chevrolet 1953-1955 235
3701946 Chevrolet 1953 235
3703414 Chevrolet 1954-1956 261
3733340 Chevrolet 1955-1957 261
3733813 Chevrolet 1958 261
3733946 Chevrolet 1954-1955 235
3733949 Chevrolet 1953-1955 235
3733950 Chevrolet 1954-1955 261
3737012  Chevrolet 1955-1957 261
3738307  Chevrolet 1958-1962 235
3738365 Chevrolet 1960-1962 261
3738476 Chevrolet 1958-1962 235
3738813 Chevrolet 1955-1963 261
3739365 Chevrolet 1958-1962 261
3739716  Chevrolet 1958-1962 235
3759365  Chevrolet 1959 261
3764476  Chevrolet 1958-1962 235
3769716  Chevrolet 1958-1962 235
3769717  Chevrolet 1959-1962 261
3769925  Chevrolet 1958-1962 261
3773949  Chevrolet 1954 235
3782856  Chevrolet 1962-1967 194
3782858  Chevrolet 1962-1967 194
378307  Chevrolet 1960-1962 235
3783949  Chevrolet 1953-1954 235
3788378  Chevrolet 1962-1974 292
3788406  Chevrolet 1962-1969 230
3788514  Chevrolet 1962-1970 153
3788813  Chevrolet 1955-1959 261
3789404  Chevrolet 1963-1976 292
3789412  Chevrolet 1963-1966 292
3789716  Chevrolet 1963-1972 292
3792852  GMC 1962-1966 194
3792858  Chevrolet 1962-1967 194
3821970  GMC 1967-1972 292
3833057  Chevrolet 1962-1970 191
3833067  Chevrolet 1963-1970 194
3833340  Chevrolet 1955-1957 261
383340  Chevrolet 1955-1957 261
3835253  Chevrolet 1942-1953 216
3835309 Chevrolet 1942-1949 235
3835335  Chevrolet 1942-1949 235
3835353 Chevrolet 1948-1952 216
3835363  Chevrolet 1954 235
3835374  Chevrolet 1942-1949 235
3835491  Chevrolet 1954 235
3835497  Chevrolet 1942-1953 216
3835527  Chevrolet 1951 216
3835692 Chevrolet 1950-1952 235
3835794  Chevrolet 1942-1953 216
3835846  Chevrolet 1953 235
3835849  Chevrolet 1942-1953 216
3835894  Chevrolet 1953 216
3835911  Chevrolet 1953-1955 235
3835917  Chevrolet 1954-1955 235
3835946  Chevrolet 1953 235
3835949  Chevrolet 1954 235
3836012  Chevrolet 1955-1957 261
3836223  Chevrolet 1955-1957 235
3836233  Chevrolet 1955-1957 235
3836340  Chevrolet 1955-1958 261
3836386  Chevrolet 1955-1957 235
3837004  Chevrolet 1955-1957 235-261
3837012  Chevrolet 1955-1957 261
3843363  Chevrolet 1953-1955 235
3850817  Chevrolet 1962-1978 230-250
3851656  Chevrolet 1963-1972 292
3851659  Chevrolet 1963-1976 292
3851859  Chevrolet 1963-1972 292
3854036  Chevrolet/Olds/Pontiac 1962-1976 230-250
3855914  Chevrolet 1963-1966 292
3855987  Chevrolet 1963-1971 292
3855991  Chevrolet 1963-1970 230
3856233  Chevrolet 1955 235
3858190  Chevrolet 1954-1955 235
3877178  Buick/Olds/Chev/Pont/GMC 1962-1978 230-250
3879875  Chevrolet 1962-1970 194
3886061  Chevrolet 1963-1966 292
3890011  Buick/Chev/Olds/Pontiac 1968-1972 250
3890013  Chevrolet 1968-1972 250
3892858  Chevrolet 1964-1967 194
389770  Chevrolet 1942-1951 216
3897702  Chevrolet 1942-1953 216
3921770  Chevrolet 1966-1976 292
3921967  Chevrolet 1964-1969 230
3921968  Chevrolet 1964-1976 230-150
3921970  Chevrolet 1963-1976 292
828575  Chevrolet 1972-1977 250
837751  Chevrolet 1942-1949 235
839770  Chevrolet 1942-1953 216
8397715  Chevrolet 1942-1949 235
839910  Chevrolet 1942-1951 216
839931  Chevrolet 1942-1949 235
8994256  Chevrolet 1964-1977 292
9890043 Pontiac 1968-1969 250

Fan Blade Change

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

At the beginning years of the 216 engine (1937-1938) the fan blade that cooled the radiator was made with a center hub plus four blades. Each blade was attached to the hub with three rivets.

This combination worked well when new, however, it was certainly more expensive to produce. A dangerous part of the design was the blades attached by rivets. Rain water while driving and sometimes a leaking radiator allowed dampness to get between the blades where they overlapped the center hub. As rust continued, the chance of a blade coming loose increased. Even with deterioration, the four blades stayed in balance while the vehicle was moving. Then all #*!# broke loose when a blade went through the hood, radiator, or where-ever!

A new design fan was introduced in 1939 and used through all the remaining 216 years and early 235 year, 1954. This blade was used on Chevrolet cars and pickup trucks. It is simply two identical blades welded together that held tight against the water pump with four fasteners. Much less expensive to produce and so much safer!!!

fan blade

Close-Up of 1937-1938 Fan Blade with Rivets. (above)

fan blade

1937-1938 Fan Blade with rivets. (above)

fan blade

Close-Up of the new improved safer 1939-1954 Fan Blade (above)

fan blade

1939-1954 Fan Blade (above)

1936 – 1946 Engine Dust Pans…Pure GM

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

1936 - 1946 GM

During the 1930′s and 1940′s our Nations roads were dirt and gravel. Paving had been underway for many years but there was still a long way to go.

To protect engine componants from a constant attack of dirt, GM designed metal stamped panels that attached to an area where the engine block and oil pan connect. This slowed dust from collecting on moving parts and for certain around the engine air breather.

1936 1946 engine dust pan 1936 1946 engine dust pan 1936 1946 engine dust pan 1936 1946 engine dust pan
1936
1936 ?
1937- 1938
1939-1946


Over the years, these gradually fell from their attaching fasteners and found their way to the roads. Potholes and ruts were often the culprits. The vehicle owners and even hired mechanics tended to remove them during maintenance. They were rarely paced back into position.

Today finding a pair of these engine dust pans is almost impossible. Newer generations have no knowledge of their existance. These photos of the different years should be about 1936 and 1946.

If someone is in disagreement on the years, email us at info@jimcartertruckparts.com

Early Gas Tank Changes

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

During the three years of this cab design, subtle changes occurred as GM engineers learned better ways to construct this truck. The gas tank changes on the pickup body style was probably the most obvious and it was different each of the three years.

In 1936, the new mid year low cab pickup continued with the earlier practice of securing the tank under the bed and behind the rear axle. The gas add spout extended through a hole in the lower bed side behind the right rear fender. Thought it might seem like a good location, it was not. Considering the trucks stiff suspension the poor roads of the 1930′s, and how rough trucks were treated, this location resulted in tanks leaks and cracked fuel lines that were over 6 feet from the engine.

The answer to this problem came out in the 1937 trucks. The tank was moved to the protected area under the cab seat cushion. This solved prior problems but the improvement did not go far enough. The fuel add hole was in the top of the tank on the passenger side. To gain access to the threaded plug to add fuel, the right side of a new split bottom cushion was raised or removed. Rain or shine, the passenger would stand outside and wait for fueling so the seat cushion could be replaced. Of course, any accidental spills or splashing from the spout would give fumes within the cab till the evaporation was complete. What if you lit a cigarette out of habit? What about a small electrical short under the dash? Your imagination can tell you what probably happened a few times over the years.

The engineers seem to have got it together in mid 1938. They redesigned the 1937 tank and cab so that gasoline was added through a spout that now extended out the cab corner. The bottom seat cushion was then one piece, however, for several months two piece bottoms were still used on the assembly line until supplies were exhausted. Therefore, the late 1938 tank was used less than one year and is very rare today. The new designed 1939 body style continued with this type tank and cab design but the 39 tank will not interchange in the earlier cab.

early gas tank changes 1

1937 ( above)

early gas tank changes 2

1937 (above)

early gas tank changes 3

1937 (above)

early gas tank changes 4

1937 (above)

early gas tank changes 5

1938 (above)

early gas tank changes 6

1938 (above)

early gas tank changes 7

Gas Spout Hole from Outside

early gas tank changes 8

Gas Spout Hole from Inside

Chevy and GMC Engines

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

Though the major cab and fender sheet metal change began in mid 1947 (Advance Design), both the Chevrolet and GMC trucks kept their same proven six cylinder engines as used in prior years.

The base engine in GMC light trucks was the 228 cubic inch inline six introduced in 1939. This overhead valve unit had a full pressure oil system with its rod and main bearings lubricated from drilled lines within the crankshaft. This high pressure is reflected on the dash gauge reading 0-50 pounds.

This family of engines during the Advance Design years also produced the 248 and 270 cubic inch units. The cylinder diameter in their main difference. They all share the same overhaul gaskets, water pumps, oil pans, distributors and side plates. On GMC, not Chevrolet, the cubic inch is the first three digits of the stamped serial number on the flat surface behind the distributor.

Chevrolet’s six cylinder used during most of the Advance Design years was very different from that in the GMC. Its standard 216 cubic inch engine was a result of continual improvements since the first Chevrolet six cylinder began in 1929. The 1940′s 216 truck engines were almost identical to that in the Chevrolet car. Therefore, millions of 216′s were on the road by the beginning of 1947. Their basic design and easy maintenance made them one of the greats in lower priced vehicles. When used on the roads of that era, they provided dependable service both on the farm and in the city.

The 216 was the standard power plant in the 3000 and 4000 series trucks. Its big brother, the 235 was optional on the 4000 series and standard on the 5000 and 6000 series. It is almost identical to the 216 but the increased displacement gave the needed extra power to work trucks. The 235 truck engine was not used in pickups, however, was matched to the Powerglide transmission cars with some modifications between 1950-53.

These 216 and early 235 are designed to operate without oil lines drilled in the crankshaft to lubricate their bearings.

The early 235 is not to be confused with the more famous later 235 full pressure engine first introduced in Powerglide Chevrolet cars and the Corvette in 1953. During this transition year trucks continued to have the lower pressure design. By 1954 the full oil pressure 235 became the standard of the Chevrolet fleet. It was modified for trucks by using solid valve lifters in place of the hydraulics in cars. The camshaft gear was changed from fiber to aluminum.

Closed Drive Shafts

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

Occasionally we hear owners condemning the closed drive shaft system used in the 1/2 ton trucks prior to 1955. After questioning the negative comment, we almost always discover the real criticism is the low gearing of the ring and pinion in the differential. Yes, this lower gear ratio was created more for slower roads of year gone by, but it is by far not a poorly designed system. In fact, it is questioned if there has ever been drive shaft and u-joint combinations that exceed the durability of this GM quality engineered closed unit.

Over 50% of the surviving older 1/2 ton pickups continue to use their original closed systems. Of these, the majority have had little or no servicing other than keeping lubrications in the transmission and differential.

Consider this when you realize the last GM closed drive shaft system was produced in 1954. Many others have been in irregular service prior to the 1920′s. Also remember that many 1/2 ton pickups were often given abuse far in excess of the manufacturer’s recommendations.

What modern open drive shaft system has been able to compare with this unsurpassed record? None!! Sure, the newer open u-joints are easier to change. They better be. They require attention or replacement so much more frequently!

Another Example of GM Quality!!!

We recently received the following comment from John Berkeley Ball. He also confirms the quality of the General Motor’s 1/2 ton closed drive shaft and differential.

Dear Jim Carter

Thanks for your excellent articles. One very pertinent point I feel that you should mention about closed drive shafts is their absolute impervability to rear spring wind up. Used on the farm over soft ground with heavy loads, you could not afford to send your rear end into drive breaking pulsations every time you lost traction, whether the shocks were worn out or not (some were single action any way). What a huge advantage over the Hotchkiss rear end! this is an often unknown design attribute that Chevy engineers were unfoundedly maligned for – at least by today’s city slickers…

John Ball

You may relate comments to this web site or Mr. Ball direct at john_ball@telus.net.

216 Oil Leaks

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

And now we’ve seen it all! A real example of American ingenuity.

Designed by an aftermarket company to keep an over tightened valve cover from leaking motor oil down the engine sides.  A metal band is pushed over and around the base of the valve cover.  Brass U-brackets are then secured by the two valve cover studs.  This creates equal pressure around the valve cover perimeter to stop the leaks down the side of the engine. 

Scott states he has seen these brackets on another 216 engine. Maybe a company in that area once offered them at local auto parts stores.

This photo was taken by Scott Golding, a resident of Western Nebraska.


216 Oil Leaks

E-mail scottandbetty@hotmail.com. Scott states he has seen these brackets on another 216 engine. Maybe a company in that area once offered them at local auto parts stores.

Your opinion is welcomed.

 

1937 or Older Chevrolet Pressure Plate

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

1937 Chevrolet

Rebuilding the 1937 and older pressure plate can be a little tricky. The early design (activated with a carbon throw out bearing under pressure) requires extra steps when being rebuilt. With the help of an older shop manual (see below) the final details can be successful.

The personal letter is from Richard Wright of Westtown, NY. He did not receive the necessary final touches in the rebuilding procedure and he made the final adjustments. Fortunately, the 1935 Chevrolet shop manual has a description of how to complete this procedure. The following letter, pictures and shop manual page should be of help in the rebuilding procedure. A more advanced pressure plate was introduced in 1938. A new diaphragm design then became a standard in Chevrolet for 30 years.

NOTE:

The “X” mark on the clutch cover should be lined up as near as is possible with the “X” mark on the flywheel. These “X” marks are balance marks.

Place clutch pilot tool, Fig.99 into position. This tool properly lines up to the disc so that when the transmission is assembled the splines on the main drive gear shaft will line up and enter easily the splines in the clutch disc.

Assemble the nine cap screws holding the clutch cover to the flywheel, tightening each one , one turn at a time until the cover is assembled into position. Remove the clutch disc aligning tool. Assemble throwout bearing sleeve.

CLUTCH LEVER HEIGHTS

It is very important that the clutch levers be of the same height to assure correct clutch operation. In addition to the clutch levers being the same height, the maximum run-out of the clutch throw-out bearing plate should not exceed .020″ when measured with an indicator guage placed on the clutch housing.

clutch adjustments 1937 chevrolet

The checking and correcting may be done after the transmission and clutch throw-out collar have been removed.

To check run-out, place the indicator guage on the clutch housing through the transmission hole as shown in Fig 100. Set the dial guage at zero and check run-out while turning engine. If run-out exceeds .020″ the high lever plate should be shimmed-up by placing a shim under each side of the plate at the attaching bolts, which will result in dropping the high finger. Connecting rod shims with the ends trimmed may be used.

REPLACEMENT OF TRANSMISSION

These operations are just the reverse of the removal operations. The tool shown in Fig 101 can be used to hold the universal joint rings in position while assembling the nuts.

1937 clutch adjustments chevrolet

CLUTCH PEDAL ADJUSTMENT

There are two very important adjustments to the clutch pedal. The first is for obtaining the proper clearance between the clutch pedal and the floor board and the second for obtaining 1″ of the pedal travel before the clutch begins to disengage. These two adjustments compensate for wear of the clutch parts, and if these two operations are performed when necessary, long trouble free clutch operation can be expected.

1937 clutch adjustments chevrolet

To obtain 1/2″ clearance between the clutch pedal and the floor board, loosen nuts “A” and “B” in Fig 102 and move the pedal stop either forward or backward until the clutch pedal clears the floor board 1/2″


1937 Chevrolet 1

1937 Chevrolet 2

1937 Chevrolet 3


Below is a letter from Richard Wright of Westtown, NY.

1937 Chevrolet 1937 Chevrolet

1938-1953 Clutch

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

Chevrolet introduced their basic nine inch single disc clutch and corresponding diaphragm pressure plate in 1938. This pair was used in their cars and most 1/2 ton pickups with three speed transmissions through 1953. With about one million of these vehicles sold annually, one can quickly realize the high numbers of this clutch system that was at one time on the highway.

Even in 1954 with the introduction of the larger ten inch clutch disc and modified pressure plate on the new 235 six cylinder, the original design continued to sell very well as aftermarket replacements. Today, they still have a strong demand even though the majority of these over fifty year old vehicles are history. Most auto part stores now keep a pair in inventory for their walk-in customers.

1938-1953 Clutch

To add even more validity to this clutch’s durability, GM reintroduced it in the late 1960′s. General Motors was a major producer of full size passenger buses and the demand for most having the optional air conditioning was becoming strong. Almost all new buses would now be equipped with the option. The original small nine inch clutch was combined with the newly engineered large bus AC compressor. Once again, this proven clutch was serving automotive needs!

Therefore, if you find a source for new or core clutch assemblies used from the late 1960′s to at least the mid 1970′s in GM buses, they will also fit 1938-53 cars and small trucks.

Ghost Windows

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

The door window is cranked up tight in the cloth channel and off you go on your daily errands. Suddenly, the glass begins to slowly lowers as you drive over side roads or contact a rough surface. In comes cold air, rain, and wind! Even the window handle turns. What’s this all about? Do you tape the window closed or wire the handle so it will not turn?

You have a window regulator spring problem! This large 2″ diameter round spring has either broken or become disconnected.

With no spring tension on the regulator, the weight of the glass creates the lowering of the support arm and window. Sorry, there is no good fix other than removing the regulator from inside the door. The picture below shows this circular Clock spring. It must be large to hold the weight of the glass panel.

ghost window

1939-1946 Electric Wiper Motor

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

electric wiper motor 1

1939-1946 Electric Wiper Motor

Even if you prefer an original vacuum wiper motor for these years rebuildable cores have become very rare and most New Old Stock units are just not obtainable. Even new ones have their lubrication dry after 70 years.

For those that won’t except a slow moving or non-working used vacuum unit, an alternative does exist. New electric motors are now on the market in both 6 and 12 volt styles. The above photo shows a new unit before installation.

You will no longer need the original inside wiper cover plate with the indention. Replace it with the included non-indented style which gives a smooth finish.

The electric wires can be run inside the windshield post to a switch of your choice under the dash.

These kits can be obtained from Jim Carter Truck Parts at 1-800-842-1913.

Swing Out Windshield

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

During the early years of auto and truck design, most vehicles came with their windshields capable of tipping outward. This helped poorly insulated cabs to be more bearable during hot weather. Extra outside air would be forced into the cab and replaced some of the hot air radiating from the bare sheet metal firewall.

This idea was good but not without a few problems. Unfortunately, air movement depended on the speed of the vehicle. The faster the driving, the more air circulation. Too bad for the driver in stop and go city traffic during a hot summer day.

In GM trucks, water leaks into the cab developed as the rubber edge seal began to age. The under dash crank-out gear assembly (1936-46) was not easily reached and therefore almost never received lubrication. The gear would wear and later most became non-usable. It was then necessary to close the windshield frame permanently and the cab lost a major method of getting air flow on hot days.

The system was expensive to produce! A pair of swing hinges, a crank-out assembly, and two windshield halves added to production costs.

This windshield vent system was stopped with the introduction of the 1947 Advance Design cab. The two piece windshield now became permanently sealed. An insulated interior fire wall pad was standard. A left side cowl vent intake door forced outside air over the drivers feet and lower legs. (Of course, this was also when the truck was moving.)

A top cowl vent door (also on earlier trucks) now had a screen to prevent entry of insects. Thus, this was the end of the swing-out windshield. They were a great help on hot days when the vehicle was moving, but inevitable gear wear began a new set of problems for later years.

1939-1946 Door Windows

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

During 1939-40 Door window breakage on truck cabs became a problem. As the cloth fabric in the door window channel became worn, the large and now loose fitting side windows were susceptible to cracking when the door was slammed. Complaints from dealers resulted in an improvement on 1941-46 doors. A one piece metal frame was placed around the edges of the top and sides of the glass and the breakage was greatly reduced. To make room for these new metal frames, the glass on the 1941-46 doors was now slightly smaller.

Therefore, the 1939-40 door glass and 1941-46 with metal frame will interchange in total in all 1939-46 doors. The smaller 1941-46 door glass can not be used without it’s frame or it will not seal into the cloth channel at the top of the window opening.

1939 door window

Motor Oil in Old Engines

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

Prior to the mid 1960′s, motor oil did not have the modern detergent additive. Therefore this type engine oil didn’t keep dirt particles in suspension. Foreign material would slowly settle to the bottom of the oil pan and on other flat surfaces such as the valley of the head.

If you ever removed an oil pan from a 50 year old engine that has been setting, chances are good there can be up to 1/4 inch of sludge in the bottom. This is not a bad thing! The non detergent oil has allowed the dirt to settle. As most 60 year old engines did not have an oil filter, this dirt settling was what should happen to increase the engine life.

The problem begins when a new owner wants to get his old vehicle running. He installs plugs, points, back-flushes the cooling system and changes oil. Oops, he probably adds detergent motor oil! The dirt deposits now begin to slowly go back into suspension. Unfortunately with no oil filter the dirt stays in the oil and shortens the remaining life of the engine.

Moral: Add non-detergent oil if the engine has no oil filter.

Muffler Tech

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

muffler tech

Prior to about 1962, Chevrolet trucks were equipped with round straight through mufflers. These units reduced back pressure and allowed the engine to breathe to its full potential. This caused a little extra exhaust noise in comparison to the larger more engineered oval car mufflers but trucks were for work and power.

About 1950 truck mufflers were given slightly larger inlet and outlet pipes. This allowed increased air flow which related to the slightly larger carburetor installed that year.

During the late 1960′s the Chevrolet truck Master Parts Catalog no longer listed mufflers. It appears they discontinued these units and left them to be provided by auto parts stores. By about 1995 the larger 1950′s straight through muffler was the one style available and any remaining older pipes were modified to fit 2″ inlet and 1 7/8″ outlets. Length is about 20 ½ inches.

The cars were lower to the ground and thus, required an oval muffler.  This oval shape allowed it to be higher and less likely to hit an object on the road.  Trucks were high and a round muffler was satisfactory.

Correct copies of these mufflers are available from Jim Carter’s Classic Truck Parts and a few other full stocking GM truck dealers.

 

Okie Bushing Installation (Just Before Installing)

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

okie bushing

The Problem

The closed drive shaft ( on GM 1/2 ton, 1937-54) is supported at the front by two bushings. As these wear egg shaped over many miles, the drive shaft begins to move up and down. This ruins the grease seal and causes the u-joint to begin rubbing the “bell”. Thus noise and vibration!

Finally, with a bad seal, the differential fills with transmission grease running down the drive shaft starving the shifting gears. Then, the rear wheel seals leak, the brake shoes become oil soaked, and finally the u-joint flies apart from rubbing the bell.

The Solution

Catch the developing problem early and save much expense and down time. Install what is sometimes called an “Okie Bushing”, an aftermarket, non-GM repair. This is a quick, permanent fix that does not require tearing down the differential!

Instructions

Remove the u-joint bell retainer and slide this bell back, exposing the u-joint assembly. Disassemble the u-joint by removing the four bolts. The rear u-joint yolk can now be slid off the 17 drive shaft splines, exposing the grease seal in the drive shaft.

Pull out this seal and the front egg shaped bushing from the torque tube. Sometimes this bushing is difficult to remove and special pullers can be rented. Otherwise, call Jim Carter’s Truck Parts at (800) 842-1913.  They have these pullers made.

Press in the long Okie bushing – seal first. Placing a wood block over the bushing end and tap into the drive shaft housing (torque tube) with a hammer.  This action will then press the other original rear bushing back out of position. The new Okie bushing will now hold the drive shaft in perfect alignment, as when the vehicle was new.

They used to advertise this as a permanent half-hour fix.  This is optimistic but so much easier than disassembling the differential as the Chevrolet dealers did 50 years ago.

 

Original Engines Must Breathe

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

Before the modern Positive Crankcase Ventilating System (PCV) most automotive engines breathed externally and removed their excess products of combustion into the atmosphere. It was a standard of the industry!

The lower end of the engine (below the pistons) had an attached draft tube that extended outside and below the block. It released blow-by from worn piston rings and other pollutants created from the crankshaft turning in hot motor oil.

The upper end of the overhead valve engine also must breathe. On early Chevrolet and GMC inline six cylinder engines, the venting is usually in the valve cover through factory slots. When an add-oil cap exists on this cover, it seals tight. It does no breathing.

On 1955-62 Chevrolet 235 six cylinders the valve cover slots were illuminated. It is assumed badly worn engines at high RPM leaked oil at these slots. The venting requirement was now moved to the oil cap. These redesigned caps have two features. They cover the add oil hole and vent the upper end of the engine. Their disadvantage is their internal filter can clog with oil vapors and dirt from a badly worn engine. This type venting cap must be kept clean!

The following photos show venting methods on early Chevrolet and GMC engines. Note the oil and breathing cap on the later six cylinder Chevrolet engines.

original engine 1

1937 through 1953 216 sealed oil cap (above)

original engine 2

216 valve cover vent slot (above)

original engine 3

1954 Chevrlot Vents (above)

original engine 4

1955-1962 non vented cover (above)

original engine 5

1955-1962 vented oil cap (above)

original engine 6

1963-1972… 230 and 250 with PVC system (above)

Sloppy Floor Shift Lever

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

sloppy floor shift lever

Problem: Slop in the shift pattern on 1937-47 Chevrolet 3 speed transmissions.

When shifting into 2nd gear finds your knuckles contacting the glove box door, repairs are needed

Repairs:

Chevrolet did not plan on these 3 speed transmissions to be in use over 50 years so repairs in this area were not often discussed by GM. You can fix it anyway!

Remove the flat plate with the shift lever from transmission by taking out the 4 retaining bolts. (Be sure to replace this plate with cloth or cardboard so no foreign object falls inside.) Take the shift tower from the flat plate top by removing four retaining bolts. The shift lever and its 2 1/4 inch tension spring can now be taken from the tower.

Inside the top of the tower is the worn brass bushing causing most of the shift lever slop. A replacement with tension spring can be obtained from Jim Carter’s Truck Parts and most of their full stocking dealers.

1937-1947 3 Speed Shift Repair

Shift Pin

Sorry, exchanging the brass bushing will not solve all the problem. The long horizontal pin, through the shift lever ball, needs to be replaced. The pin will probably be worn on each end and needs replacement.

Using a drill bit is a good option for a new pin. If a 1/4 inch drill bit easily moves into the shift lever ball, move up to the next size. (Maybe as much as 9/32 inch drill bit). Use it to drill the hole oversize, then use this same drill bit as the new pin. After drilling, remove the drill portion on the bit, and you have a nice hardened pin! Note: do not cut the drill bit until you know the exact length needed. Get a correct size by turning the shift tower upside down and measuring the distance between the two notches to the tower walls.

Artillery Wheels

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

The term artillery wheel is a nickname adapted from a scalloped type wheel often seen on US military vehicles in World War I. The similar appearance at a distance to GM’s scalloped steel wheels quickly gave them the name artillery.

On GM trucks, this style was first used during 1934-36 as a stock six bolt 1/2 ton 17 inch wheel. It was much stronger than the existing wire style wheels due to it being less susceptible to bending when hitting a large pot hole or sliding against a curb.

Though this 17 inch unit was discontinued on 1/2 tons for 1937, a redesigned 15 inch artillery began as GM’s stock wheel on that year’s 3/4 ton truck. It was stronger and wider but was still a non-split rim design. This remained the GM 3/4 ton wheel through 1945. By 1946, six bolt wheels on trucks were limited to 1/2 tons. The 3/4 ton would now have 15 inch 8 bolt split rims which remained stock into the 1960′s.

Today, we sometimes see 1947-59 GM 1/2 tons equipped with these early 15 inch artillery 3/4 ton wheels even though they were not placed on factory trucks after 1945. To many, they provide a unique appearance on the later 1/2 tons and will still hold the trucks current hub cap.

atrillery wheel 1

Regular 16″ Wheel (above)

artillery wheel 2

1934-1936 17″ Artillery Wheel (above)

artillery wheel 3

1937-1945 15″ Artillery Wheel (above)

Timing Gear

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

About 10 years after the introduction of GMC’s new inline six cylinder engine in 1939, General Motors issued a ‘Product Service Bulletin’ in regards to a recommended improvement on the 228, 248, and 270. It appears the manufacturer discovered a weakness that shortened the life of the engine timing gears. This recommendation was made for enlarging the oil supply hole leading to the meeting point of the two gears. The attached dealer bulletin was issued January 31, 1949.

This is especially interesting considering over a million GMC trucks with these engines had been built prior to this. The number includes the five years of military large trucks that were used during WWII under very abusive off road conditions!

tming gear

After Market Wheels for Older GM Trucks

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

From 1934 to 1959 GM 1/2 tons came from the factory with a tie rod assembly that extended side to side to almost touch the front wheels. With everything stock, the tie rod sits about 3/4 inch from the inside of both original six hole wheels and all fits just right.

A problem exists when someone attempts to add a more modern wheel. For example, the mid 60′s and newer 4×4 wheels have this 6 hole bolt pattern but their width causes them to contact the end of original long tie rod. Changing from the approximate 4-1/2 inch original to at least a 6 inch width just won’t work.

Solutions for adding a more sporty wheel are very limited with the original suspension. One almost unknown method is to replace the original GM multi-piece tie rod ends with the more modern knuckle ends introduced in the 1960′s. There are currently available and are 3/8 inch shorter on the outer end giving that much extra room for a slightly wider wheel. (It is not recommended that flat washers be placed over the stud between the wheel and drum as this can cause breakage.)

This GM six bolt pattern is also shared with several Japanese pickups. Some very attractive more narrow aftermarket wheels have been produced for their imports in past years.

Water Pump Modification

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

If you use a recently manufactured 216 water pump and combine it with the optional larger OEM radiator fan, a slight modification is necessary. The fan rivets will not clear the edge of the pulley hub. You must cut four notches in the hub for rivet clearance. Water pumps in the last five years appear to lack these notches.

Note: These larger fans, 18″ long, were optional on smaller trucks and always came on the 1 1/2 ton’s. It is the 15″ fan that will usually be on small trucks and passenger cars.

Comments courtesy of:
Bob Adler, Stephentown, NY.
bobadler@nycap.rr.com

water pump modification

Notice the four notches cut on the outer rim of the hub. (above)

water pump modification

Hub and Fan. (above)

Venting the Differential

Thursday, February 11th, 2010

Sometimes overlooked by mechanics and restorers is a small vent in the rear axle housing. This part is necessary to keep internal pressure equal to the outside atmosphere. Thus, as the internal temperature of the differential warms during use, any expanding heated air is vented and no pressure occurs. This saves wheel and pinion seals from leaking.

Check for this vent in your truck. From years of abuse many vent assemblies are missing. A sliding log chain wrapped around the axle housing for pulling is a way many vent assemblies were accidentally removed. The owner usually didn’t know the damage has been done or that a vent ever existed. Now, the small hole that once held the vent assembly is able to take in water. This is certainly not good for the internal differential parts.

Differential Vent 1

Differential Vent 2